• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Trunnion seal

doc50

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Hello all. I am in process of replacing tie rod ends and some seals on my 59 TR3.

Question about the 'bottom of trunnion' in Moss' online page under TR3 suspension. It is the vertical brass tube that holds grease for the trunnion and forms the connection for the lower A-arm / axle. I want to replace the top seal that is between trunnion and this brass piece. It looks like I need to take the lower A-frame loose to get it off.

1) Is there a way to NOT have to take the lower A frame apart? (PO replaced ball joints / A-frame bushings so I want to minimize blood, sweat and tears).
2) If I have to, what is the easiest way to get the new seal on?
(I know, I know, nothing's easy....just humor me, please, I'm fragile right now...)
 
It's just a dust seal, it's supposed to leak grease every time you grease the joint (so the old grease has a way out). So by far the easiest route is to just leave well enough alone!

Probably the easiest method (although not by much) is to remove the vertical link, leaving the trunnion attached to the A-arms. Remove the brake caliper (without removing the hose) and tie it up so the hose doesn't get damaged. Remove the dust cap & hub. Undo the nut that connects the upper ball joint to the upper A-arms and pull the joint out, letting the vertical link pivot around the trunnion pins. Mark the position of the stop (bolted to the trunnion casting) and remove it, then you should be able to unscrew the link from the casting.

But honestly, if you have doubts about the work done by the PO, it might be best to pull the lower A-arm assembly apart. The bushings at both ends of those arms take a beating (since they carry the weight of the car) and in my experience wear much faster than the ball joints do. To do that, you'll need a purpose-made spring compressor. I strongly don't recommend doing it with only a jack, as the manual outlines. Spring compressors are available from the usual suppliers, or I made my own with some threaded rod and a chunk of steel I had lying around (probably a generator pulley half from a VW bug).
 
Back
Top