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troubleshooting flasher relay box

Roberte

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How does one go about troubleshooting a flasher relay box on an austin healey BJ7? (this is not the tube shaped flasher)
 
Hi "Roberte",
Our tech guys get this call quite often and we put together a video a couple of years ago on how it works. He is using our replacement 141-400 solid state box but that doesn't change how it works or how to test it.
It is about 10 minutes so give yourself some time.


Best of luck,

Shawn
 
Shawn, It isn't clear to me how to troubleshoot the old AND the new style.

For both styles where, and in what order, do you apply meter to find out whether circuits are working?

Also, does the power come into the unit from the flasher. Do you know how the terminals on the flasher correspond to the operation (is left one to left flasher relay terminal, R to right. center from trafficator?
 
Roberte,

Just gone through the same exercise on my 63' BJ7. I was told by the first garage that I had an original flasher unit which was faulty. Of course I ordered a new one. While waiting for the new one I visited a motor electrician (old school). He took out the old unit, opened it up and hey presto the contacts inside were oxidized. He cleaned them up with sand paper and yes you guessed it everything is working as it should. My advice would be to do the same and save yourself $150 for a new flasher unit.

Regards,

Andrew
 
Robert, I hope my drawing is attached. You can open the box up and clean the contacts as andrew said. Hopefully that will do it. But you can do alittle troubleshooting first if you like. Follow along on my drawing or you can also find the drawing in the shop manual. Oh, also make sure the top fuse in your two fuse holder fuse box is good. Ok, at terminal 5, that is a 12volt source from your brake switch. So when you step on the brake pedal, you should read 12 volts there. You can use a test light to see it #5 becomes energized when you step on the brake. When you step on the brake the 12v should carry thru the relay and energize terminals #7 & #3. When you move the trafficator switch to the left, you should get a flashing 12v at terminals #1,2 & 3. #1 is the power source coming from the cylindrical flasher, and when the switch is moved to the left it will flash the power to terminals 2&3.
Then also, when you move the trafficator switch to the right, you should get a flashing 12volts to terminals #1, 6 & 7. Clear as Mud huh. Follow it thru the drawing, just a mention to maybe help with alittle understanding of it, the trafficator switch pulls in the relay either right or left by energizing either terminal 8 or 4. If the windings are burnt out and the relay doesn't move, then nothing happens inside. You might have brake lights because that is its static position. But it won't switch the turnsignals. Dave.
 

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How does one go about troubleshooting a flasher relay box on an austin healey BJ7? (this is not the tube shaped flasher)

You can also jump the entire turn relay and maintain the original car view,
one interesting article compared on MGAguru site but actually the site isn't working for me-here I can send only a photo of the important part of the article-
thats must be adapted to the BJ7 wiring diagramMGAGURUTS1.jpg33117.jpgimage137a.jpg
I have applied this MOD on my 100 SIX BN4 and it works very well, adding separate turn lights, not available on this model DSCN2256b.jpghope this help
 
Keep in mind that all the associated circuitry--i.e. the wiring harness and all connectors--needs to be in good nick for the relay to function properly. We just spent a day-and-a-half trying to diagnose a 'problem with the relay.' With the trafficator in the right turn position, the right rear and left front parking/turn lights would blink, and nothing happened with the trafficator in the left turn position. We disassembled the relay, inspected and cleaned the points and reassembled the unit, with no change. Finally, I started tracing the wiring and found that two wires were crossed--a white with brown tracer wire was switched with a white with purple tracer wire (and vice versa) in the BRAND NEW harness. I switched the wires at the junction in the boot and everything began to work perfectly.

Electrical circuits are sometimes difficult to diagnose in isolation.
 
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