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TR6 Trouble with a TR6....body!

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smaceng

smaceng

Jedi Knight
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Too new to the TR family....and not in a good way. Don't ask how I got into this mess.....we all make mistakes, even at my old ripe age of 65. In saying that, I would like to try and turn this mess into something worthwhile....even though I know it should be junked! (this is just the tip of the trouble).
This 1970 TR6 had the floors and both sills replaced. It looked like the body was off the frame at some point during the process....maybe all of it. When it came time for the PO to put the fenders on....nothing lined up.....enter the new owner, me!
At this point in time, I am asking your help to try to line up the fenders with the doors....the right side is shown, the left side is even worse. Dimensions at right door: gap at top rear: 5/16", bottom rear: 3/16", top front: 2/16", bottom front: 8/16".
Can this be corrected by changing the thickness of the body washers?
Do you think I will have to weld in gap spacers? CIMG2246a.JPG
Can it be corrected to something reasonable, like 3/16" or so?
If it can be corrected by changing the body washers, how would you recommend I do this?
Thanks, for your help!
Scott in CA
 
TR6 door gaps were off from the factory. Yours don't look that bad. Front fender needs pulling back at the bottom. The rocker does look like it was not installed correctly but not much you can do there unless you pull it off and reweld.You can install more rubber spacers at the tail to raise it enough to close the door gap at the top but it looks pretty normal.
 
As Marv says the gaps were never perfect and if you see a car with perfect gaps it has been redone.
The gaps can be "fixed" by putting shims under the tub.
Not an easy quick job
 
There is also some lateral alignment possibilities by loosening the six bolts attaching the door hinge to the body. See page 410 of the Bentley Manual.
 
Looks like the bottom of the door could go forward a skooch
 
Without doubt the easiest way to get this perfect is to re-skin the doors.

When you get a new skin the flanges are already turned up by 90 degrees and you close em over the inner frame.

But generally your gaps are bigger than you want. Turn the flange back to about 45 from 90. Then refold it and flatten out whats left of the original flange. You can easily win 1/8 by doing this.

You will need to use a bit of lead or bondo of course.

Tipping the doors about won't do it. Something, like the swage line, or the locks, will always be wrong.

Sometimes pro rebuilders extend the fenders by welding. Its OK, but they go rusty pretty quick in the wet, afterwards.

You can look at a dozen and about half will be worse than yours.

Check this to get an idea of typical door gaps:

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/39826-tr6-for-sale-help-wanted/

Al.
 
How does the rear fender line up with the rear valance? How does the front fender line up with the front valance? Check both of those to see if they should be moved forward or back. Lets hope the sill was installed correctly or you will never get a good fit, and seal. Any damage to the frame, or rust? How does the door glass line up with the windshield frame? Lots of areas to look at if you don't know the cars history.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I've been working on the front of the car, and it seems that I can get the fenders inward at the front to match to the bonnet. The cockpit wrap on the right side does not match up with the height of the right rear fender....why I don't know, and the right rear fender has been welded on! Next I am going to try to add spacers to the body at the rear, and see if I can improve the door fit by elevating the rear. I'll keep you up to date.
Thx, Scott in CA
 
So I took a look at the body spacers and found about 3/4" under the outriggers at the center, none at the rear, and the front ones are loose. So, all you TR off-the-frame-guys, what can I expect for a change in gap at the rear of the door with say a 1/2" raise at the rear? What incriments would suggest I try? In my case, the rear has to go up, and the front needs to go down, if this spacer project works.
Thanks, Scott in CA
 
The 4/6 MUST have the body properly spaced up from the frame, It changes the door aperture !!!
The correct way is with the wings off,place spacers under the frame mounts and make sure that the door fits the aperture
spot on with the body bolts tightened.Then and ONLY then can the wings go up for a test fit.Bear in mind that some hand fitting of the wings was VERY common at the factory and infact the often welded the rear wings to the rocker to get it to stay put....
MD(mad dog)
 
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