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TR2/3/3A Triumphant TR2

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The latest issue of Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car highlights a knocked-out gorgeous TR2 on its cover. Inside the article goes on to talk about the restoration from almost-rust-bucket barn find to a concours winner. The car is great looking but the part that baffles me is the owner seemed to restore this car inside his own garage. To this level yet. How is that possible? Is the owner perchance a forum member? I would love to hear more about how this car went from a rusty hulk to a trophy winning best of show. Would make an excellent story. The article in Hemmings just didn't go into enough detail. Does anyone know the owner?
 
I have not yet read the article but.... A few years ago I had a customer that restored his TR3 in his home garage, and it was REALLY well done. I met him because he had a few wiring issues, and wanted help dialing in his SUs.It was really a stunning car. White, black interior, and disc wheels. With OD. I lost touch with him when he retired and moved to North Carolina. I hope he is still driving and enjoying the car. It is amazing what someone can do with some determination. I forget what business he was in, but it was not automotive related. He tought himself as he went along, re did the thngs he was not pleased with, and ended up with as nice a car as any shop would have produced.
 
Bill, didn't see the picture or article, but with a mig welder, grinder, a little bit of paint knowledge, patiece and order one of each out of the Moss catalogue TR2-3 you have a new car and a short pocket book. The last TR4A out of a restoration shop here was a cool $45,000. It was the guys dad's, took 4 years from rust to what is a beautiful car. Hope he drives it, but haven't seen it on the road yet and it's been 6 months.

Not to change the subject, but did you put Webers on your TR6, I seem to remember you did..I have a set and am thinking of going all out with Ansa system, already have a blueprinted engine with curved distributor. ARE the Webers a pain or not. I got the engine they are on running fine but they seemed a bit rich, maybe they will work better on the higher lift cam.

Wayne
 
trrdster2000 said:
Not to change the subject, but did you put Webers on your TR6, I seem to remember you did..I have a set and am thinking of going all out with Ansa system, already have a blueprinted engine with curved distributor. ARE the Webers a pain or not. I got the engine they are on running fine but they seemed a bit rich, maybe they will work better on the higher lift cam.

Wayne
Click to expand...


Wayne, I have triple Strombergs on my TR6, not Webers. Webers I am let to believe are a good conversion (triple side-draft) but ya gotta really get them tuned perfectly for the car to be streetable. It is doable, just takes some serious tuning. I have seen trip Webers on a Triumph that purred like a kitten and roared like a lion, but the owner was a top notch carb tuner.
 
Nothing strange about high quality work in a home shop to me. As a matter of fact, I am just about to hang my shingle as "Ken's British" here in Maine, specializing in lbc's. I have a small but pretty much fully equipped home shop.

Currently I and am expanding by adding an additional 14x24 work space, separate from the lift and mechanical bays.

I don't expect, nor do I want to do high volume but will offer my services including component restoration and powdercoating, as well as standard mechanical service and restoration. It's rare to find a commercial lbc shop in this area, let alone a shop that can afford to work to a degree of perfection that a home shop such as mine can provide.
 
Ditto on that Peter. Good luck, I beleive you will do well
in that area. One bit of advise, wear a dust mask for body and brake work, got to me over the years.

Bill, in the process of ordering a hand full of jets for the webers, they sure have a big margin of cost.

Wayne
 
Thanks Wayne,

Personal safety is first in my shop. My dad died of lung cancer and I wear a dust respirator and organic vapor respirator depending on the situation.
 
and I hope solvent proof gloves for cleaning. Due to my carelessness over the years I can't let a drop touch my skin without a bad reaction.
 
Hi Folks;

I was just driving thru /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif and I have a Question relative to Carbs:

On the VTR Website Classified Section there is a Pretty nice looking BRG `72 TR6 For Sale for $5500.00: I don`t know if its Sold yet or not: Just emailed the Seller for More Info:

Anyways; This is the 2nd time I saw this: Look at the Engine Bay / Twin Strombergs with these "Coffee Pots" on top of the Carbs! What the heck are they? I saw one on an Ebay For Sale TR6 that I believe was a Spam cause I never heard back from the Seller but He had the exact same set-up:

Thanx for any input;

Regards, Russ /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif
 
yup, several sets of solvent proof gloves (with and without holes in the finger tips) ... flame can for oily rags, and multiple sets of safety glasses (so I can always find a pair), face shield at the wheels, coveralls, wall mounted fire extinguishers, first-aid kit on the wall, eye wash, wall mounted satellite TV, DSL on the PC, stereo speakers w/subwoofer (I did say equipped shop, didn't I?!)
 
toysrrus said:
On the VTR Website Classified Section there is a Pretty nice looking BRG `72 TR6 For Sale
Click to expand...
You mean this one ?
https://www.vtr.org/classifieds/detail.php?siteid=2624
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Look at the Engine Bay / Twin Strombergs with these "Coffee Pots" on top of the Carbs![/QUOTE]The stock TR6 carbs, like many other British cars of the period, are "constant velocity" designs (aka "constant depression"), which means that the venturi size changes to match the air flow rate. This keeps a relatively constant air velocity through the venturi (and hence a constant vacuum/depression acting on the fuel jet). The top of the venturi is a big piston that moves up and down. I believe what you are looking at is the housing for the rubber diaphragm that seals the piston on a ZS carb.

The CD carbs started out as a simple and robust design. Unfortunately, the emissions standards made them more and more complex, so the TR6 carbs are far from simple. But they still aren't any worse than any equivalent "emissions" carb, IMO.
 
Well, this thread has gone astray, but I looked at those carbs and they don't look like normal ZS tops to me, maybe some aftermarket-attached bling of some type?

Randy
 
Oops, you're right. I didn't look closely enough. That's just what they are, chromed aftermarket bling. No idea where to buy them today, but JZ Witless used to carry them.
 
Hi Bill. Thanks for the nice words in the British Car Forum.I restored my rust bucket completely in my home garage and youre not the first person to ask this question. It blows the minds of all the concours judges too.The Hemmings article would have to have been four times longer to cover everything that was done. Many years ago I was a factory trained Triumph mechanic and I have been an automotive tool dealer for the last 30 years. Knowing every mechanic,bodyman,machine shop and upholstery shop in town doesnt hurt either. Im a hands on guy who does it himself.That way its done right. The pictures in the magazine dont do justice to the detail in the car. If I can ever help you please feel free to contact me. John Malinick john_malinick@yahoo.com
 
John_Malinick said:
Hi Bill. Thanks for the nice words in the British Car Forum.I restored my rust bucket completely in my home garage and youre not the first person to ask this question. It blows the minds of all the concours judges too.The Hemmings article would have to have been four times longer to cover everything that was done. Many years ago I was a factory trained Triumph mechanic and I have been an automotive tool dealer for the last 30 years. Knowing every mechanic,bodyman,machine shop and upholstery shop in town doesnt hurt either. Im a hands on guy who does it himself.That way its done right. The pictures in the magazine dont do justice to the detail in the car. If I can ever help you please feel free to contact me. John Malinick john_malinick@yahoo.com
Click to expand...

John,
Do you have a website with pictures of the car for those of us that missed it in Hemmings?
 
Yep, a good shop is the cherry on the frosting. The person doing the job makes all the difference in the world. If you are a good wrench, persnickity and well organized it is amazing what you can accomplished.
A number of years ago I did my first frame off on a 1927 LeSalle. It was done in a two car garage with a home built compressor hand tools and little else. I did everything but the upholstry. I won best restored car for the year in the Houston Horseless Carriage Club. I even painted it, all four colors. Used laquer.

I will admit I had a professional do the body on my TR it was waaayyy beyond my limited capabilities. Today with the help of the BCF the job gets easier. My wife is constantly amazed about how much help the forum is to me. I'm not, this the type of hobby that has always drawn folks together for mutual aid and assistance. It is so much easier now with the internet.

When I retired and built my house the first thing I decided was how big the shop would be, then we went from there. While I was making the big bucks I bought all the toys I would need to do a bang up job. It still boils down to the want to, how to and the stick to, to get it done.

Love the BCF, Tinkerman
 
A decent shadetree mechanic with a well-sorted shop can produce darn near anything! The mountains around here seem to be full of guys who are American muscle car fanatics who go around to car shows, purchase rusted body shells and turn them into concours show cars and drag strip racers.

One fellow who helps me on various projects (he's a technician at the local Ford dealer) bought a 1970 Boss 429 at the Carlisle car show that was nothing but a rusty body shell (i.e., no interior, no engine, just rusty metal) and turned it into a near-perfect car in about a year! All stock, absolutely lovely car.

There are thousands guys like him all over the place that fuel the multi-zillion dollar antique car resoration marketplace.

It's not rocket science. All it takes is a little know-how, the right tools, and of course, the key ingredients: TIME and MONEY! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif
 
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