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TR2/3/3A Triumph Rescue/British Wiring Alternator Kit

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K

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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Has anyone bought this kit and had any problems with the alternator other than mounting modifications? The alternator on mine is not charging and it's only about a year old. Belt tension is good. Can heat from a header pipe destroy a diode? Is it possible to buy a diode or does the whole alternator need replacement.
What brands of alternator could I get locally that would be the same physical size to fit as a replacement. The output is 65 Amp. Would the wiring hook up the same. Electrical is not my strong point.
 
The diodes are definitely the weakest part in alternators, and heat is not kind to any semi-conductors. I am certain the Triumph Rescue kit is using an alternator from another application, likely one that is very common.

Just got off the phone with TR. They say it is a standard GM style alternator from the mid '70's. So 70's camaro, chevelle, Monte carlo, etc. Just make sure it has only a single wire to it, as the earlier GM alternators used an external regulator and will have 2 wires. You want the internal regulator.

One thing, Most Autozones and the like have an alternator tester, so you can make sure it's bad before spending any money.
 
Look around, you may be able to find a local auto electric shop that will rebuild it for you at a fraction of the cost.
 
The mid-1970s GM alternator for the cars listed above would be a Delco model 10SI. You will find them at the local parts store in both 1-wire and 3-wire configurations. If you want to use the idiot light, get the 3-wire configuration. If you get the 3-wire configuration, also get the repair plug that attaches to the alternator's side terminals. The side terminals will be labeled "1" and "2". Connect "2" back to the output terminal (threaded stud). That's the sense wire connection. The wire on terminal "1" goes to your dash indicator light.
 
I bought this kit from British Wiring 5 years ago and the alternator is still going strong.

Bill
TS63273L
 
Most if not all GM/Delco alternators from that period are 3-wire units; but still have an internal regulator. One of the wires drives the dash lamp (a very worthy function IMO), the other is the 'sense' line from the battery. What the "one wire" aftermarket versions do is ignore the lamp output, and internally jumper the sense input to the output.

But frankly, the wiring is pretty trivial. Buy the plug to go into the alternator (available as a repair piece at FLAPS) and splice two wires; now you have a "wiring kit" in your hands. Terminal 1 is the output to the dash lamp (some alternators require that this be hooked up or they won't work), Terminal 2 is the sense input. Numbers should be clearly marked on the alternator housing. Here's a random image from Google:
3rd_ge20.jpg


You didn't say what alternator you have now (or I missed it). There are "rebuild kits" available for some of the most common units (like the 70's Delco) that usually include new diodes as well as brushes and bearings. But often the diodes have to be soldered to the windings, so check out what you have first. Just for an example, here is a 12Si (70s GM Delco) kit on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/i/141976219938?chn=ps&dispItem=1

I went with the externally regulated Ford unit "back when", as it was very slightly smaller than the GM unit and space is limited. Had some shortcomings, like the alternator had to come completely loose to change the belt; but it served me well for many years. I grabbed the alternator, regulator and harness from the junkyard (68 Mercury Grand Marquis IIRC). I did eventually replace the original mechanical regulator after it failed with a more modern electronic unit, but it was a drop-in replacement.
Here's a shot where you can see the alternator and it's regulator.
blWfnpp.jpg
 
I've used a 10si a few times and also have seen the British wiring kit- if your alternator is bad you can get a replacement pretty easily from the parts store, the only modification needed is cutting about 1/2" off the case to get the pulleys to align. British wiring kit already has the case modification done for you.
 
Well it turns out that I was on the wrong track. There is nothing wrong with the British Wiring/Triumph Rescue alternator. It turns out the fault was a broken red wire inside the white plastic plug(see Randall's picture) that goes into the alternator. I put more substantial ends on those wires as they look like they are made out of some flimsy brass material.
 
TR4nut said:
I've used a 10si a few times and also have seen the British wiring kit- if your alternator is bad you can get a replacement pretty easily from the parts store, the only modification needed is cutting about 1/2" off the case to get the pulleys to align. British wiring kit already has the case modification done for you.
Click to expand...

Oh great...now I may need to spend more money and just do an alternator conversion. Thanks! ;-) I just don't have confidence in the stock generator. But that alternator in a generator housing BPNW sells is pretty tempting as well. Decisions decisions.
 
ghawk16 said:
Oh great...now I may need to spend more money and just do an alternator conversion. Thanks! ;-) I just don't have confidence in the stock generator. But that alternator in a generator housing BPNW sells is pretty tempting as well. Decisions decisions.[/QUOTe) Don't know if this is true or not but I thought I read on this forum that there were issues with the alternator in the generator housing units failing because of heat issues???
Click to expand...
 
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