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Triple Strombergs

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DougF

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I just placed my order with Good Parts. I need them to complete the head so I guess it's an early Christmas present.
I still need to order the linkage, air cleaners, etc.
Should be a fun project.
 
One of many excellent cash burning choices. One day I want a supercharger. Good luck. Brosky is the expert on this.
 
Do yourself a favor and get the Ratco throttle linkage. It allows you to:

1. Keep your stock linkage unmodified if you ever decide to go back original
2. It will work a whole lot better than the modified version

Here's the link:
https://www.rat-co.com/ThrotleLink.html

Another thing to keep in mind is that most of the installations have had problem keeping all three carbs lining up in both planes resulting in a binding throttle shaft in one or more carbs.

The solution is to take your time with the setup.. I had to slightly drill out a few of the manifold mounting holes in order to give myself a little more play with the adjustment.
 
Tip #1. Call TRF and order three (3) new stock flex coupling sets for between the carbs. You want the stock ones, not the HD versions. TRF only sells stock.

Tip #2. Follow my installation instructions here (forgetting about the solid couplers as they did not work out well, hence the stock flex couplings): https://www.74tr6.com/triplecarbinstall.htm

Tip #3. Order Ratco linkage and follow my guide here: https://www.74tr6.com/ratcolinkage.htm

Tip #4. Make sure that your engine is tuned properly and valves are adjusted BEFORE swapping carbs. Also insure that you have NO vacuum leaks before starting.

Tip #5. Order the fuel line kit from GoodParts also. naturally, you will want a new fuel filter to go with this setup. Make sure that you have a vacuum and fuel pump gauge on hand to test your fuel pump pressure before starting the swap. The vacuum gauge will come in handy for tuning later as well.

Tip #6. Read everything that you can about adjusting and balancing ZS carbs and it will be enjoyable when the time comes. If you can, get one of these for balancing the carbs.
 
Thank you for this info. I have the flex connectors on order. I haven't ordered the Ratco set up yet since I figure I'm a little ways out.
I'm sure I'll be asking questions along the way.
Thanks again.
 
Doug,

Here is the template for bending the bracket. I clamped it in a vise with two wooded shims to keep the powder coat from getting scratched, then inserted the big round shaft screwdriver in the hole on the end and slowly bent it to shape.

Print this as an 8.5" X 11" and you're a;; set.
 
Brosky,
Thanks. It looks like I am going to have a very busy winter. Anything to make the cold weather go away faster.
As soon as I am done painting a garage between the rain drops, rebuilding a softball infield, and getting my 3 into primer, I will start on this project. My guess is shortly after the first snowflake.
In Kas's last book, he writes of a man in England that is doing a funnel grind on the intake ports. By accident, this is the course I am going. For anyone who hasn't seen this article, along with his other mods, this guy says he is only after torque, because where there is torque, there is hp. He is producing around 180 hp at the rear wheels. I would like to have that at the flywheel. His engine is supposed to be very streetable...whatever that means.
I haven't taken as much from the head as him, but it could be a long winter.
I will only be going 30 over, about 10.5/1, etc.
It should be a very fun project. I don't think it will be ready next spring, but hopefully in the summer.
I'll try to keep an update.
I have a spare stock motor just in case.
 
DougF said:
I will only be going 30 over, about 10.5/1, etc.
Click to expand...


Doug, going 30 over with a 10.5:1 cr is pretty radical. I assume you are going with a new cam, perhaps the GP2 GoodParts cam. I had my head shaved to 9.5:1 and the head ported to match the intake (trips) with the GP2 cam. Methinks 10.5 is pretty radical, getting into very fast road territory. My car is "streetable" but it is tough to get it to idle below 1200 rpm.

As far as the Ratco linkage, a really good idea. I made a slight boo-boo in moving my linkage to the front between the first and second carb. This works great in that I have less binding of the cable, but it interferes with my choke. Have caught myself several times with the throttle jambing with the choke and having the car crank with the throttle stuck wide open. Whoops. Will move the choke to the second and third carb over the winter.

Happy motoring.
 
Bill,

Do you mean the front and center or center and rear as the first and second carbs?

I ran mine to the rear & center linkage combination and have the choke cables going to the front and rear carbs, with no problems.
 
By not too radical, I mean I will still be able to use pump gas. I don't want to drive 30 miles for turbo blue. The head hasn't been cut yet. I still need to cc it.

I do have an upgraded cam. Not a GP2, but very similar.
 
I don't think the # of carbs effects the gas needed,it is the second part of your post. The head shaving that will have the most effect in octane
 
Thanks for the comments. I understand the # of carbs will have nothing to do with the type of gas I use. They will just help the air/gas flow.
I also realize that compression and cam have a great effect on engine performance.
I have researched this pretty thoroughly and will continue to do so. I want to concentrate a lot of work on air flow. It's as important as the compression and the cam.
I will also spend some time on the crank. There are a lot of little things I can do myself that will take a good amount of time.
I'm not in a hurry.
 
I referred back to my notes. I did miss state my intentions on the CR. I am going 9.5:1.
I prefer the egg in my face to be soft boiled.
 
Hey, the egg on the face is, at least, edible.

Now, me, I tend to insert my size 12 1/2 into my mouth too frequently.
 
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