Trim screws and cup washers

[griff]

Happy New Year to all!
I am in the process of installing door panels and have been disapponited by the very small trim screws purchased from TRF or Moss (don't remember which). They are so small it is difficult to get them in perfectly straight and flat. AND when not flat they tend to dig into the vinly. Has anyone opted to go a little bigger?

I think the look of the door-panel install would be a nicer finish with perhaps twice the head are for the cup washer and or screw.

If anyone has gone larger please advise on where to locate the large chrome screws and cup washers. I have found larger locally but all are phillips-head

regards,
Griff

 

[DNK]

If there is a marine store in your area ,stainless is a good choice. Depending on your trim color I went black I bought from my local fastener store. Check McMasters too if none of there fore mentioned is a choice for you.

 

[DougF]

There are trim screws available with smaller heads. So you could have for example, a #10 screw with a #8 head. It would give you more bite and maybe better control yet keeping a stock look.

 

[griff]

DougF I don't have anything to measure but the trim screws shipped to me are far smaller than an 8. I would guess four-ish.

Dan- Thanks for the marine store idea.

Can anyone tell me what the standard size should be?

Thanks
Griff

 

[DNK]

I think most of them from TRF are a #4

 

[71MKIV]

www.mcmaster.com

 

[Tinkerman]

Judging Standards and Restoration Guidelines calls for a #4 slotted screw. Thats what Moss and TRF ship.

Tinkerman

 

[BobbyD]

McMaster is always reliable but I just came across this place that specializes in just automotive hardware and fasteners. They might also be worth a try.

 

[Moseso]

Has anyone opted to go a little bigger?

I have seen panels affixed with larger screws than the stock #4 size. Looks OK to me. If you're planning to enter the car in originality competitions, then you're stuck with that size. I have to replace some panels this spring, and I am definitely planning to go with #6 Phillips-head stainless. It's 2010. I haven't used a slot-head screw for anything in YEARS. And, I'd much rather my car work, and be easy to work on, than that it be exactly like the day they rolled out of the factory doors.

 

[ekamm]

This isn't the the exact subject, but I did decide to go with the #4 slotted. Should get my interior next week(Christmas Present}. How will you mark or create a template to know where to place screws. I assume that the panels won't be marked. My other thought is would it be easier to pre-drill and place screws in fresh holes to ensure that they go in straight?

 

[Gordon_Dedrick]

It's almost impossible to hit all the original holes in the doors. I just tried to space mine so they looked decent...I used the #4 from TRF by the way. Just be REAL careful when drilling the holes. Center punching is a MUST in order not to twist up the new cover and padding. Use LOTS of masking tape.
Gordon

 

[martx-5]

I did mine essentially the same as Gordon. Be VERY careful drilling through the vinyl/leather. It's not the vinyl/leather that will cause the problems, but the padding inside. That stuff justs wants to spin around the drill bit and form a massive ball! What I did, was poke through the leather with a pick, and then kinda push the padding out of the way and then drill through.

 

[angelfj1]

I did mine essentially the same as Gordon. Be VERY careful drilling through the vinyl/leather. It's not the vinyl/leather that will cause the problems, but the padding inside. That stuff justs wants to spin around the drill bit and form a massive ball! What I did, was poke through the leather with a pick, and then kinda push the padding out of the way and then drill through.

I suggest that you <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">do not</span></span> drill the material. This is asking for trouble. Rather, mark the hole and use a small diameter punch. Select a hole size that is slightly larger than the screw.