Tri-Carbs/Manifold arrived today

[Brosky]

Here's the modified bellcrank assembly and then the old versus new of my previous post:

 

[swift6]

For those watching, please note that Shawn does red-line the engine, not once but twice. That car was born to be driven!

I've gotta get me a video of mine doing that same thing soon!!

When I do, I'll ask for instructions on how to post it.

Yep, sometimes I drive it like I stole it. But not every shift see those rpms. However, I can't remember a time in the recent past (with that engine) where I haven't 'ran it up there' a least a few times every time I've been out and about with it. Imagine that engine sound without the crappy mic and wind noise! Why wouldn't you want to hear that!

Those shifts were actually short of redline at about 5100 rpm. My car pulls HARD to 5500. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif Which now matches the early tachometers as they have a yellow (caution) zone with hash marks from 5,000 to 5,500 and then a solid red area with no hash marks. According to the chassis dyno that I've been on, the horsepower starts to drop off about 5,700 and the torque starts to fall off around 5,500 and that wasn't even at the max power runs. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

It's a good thing the speedometer doesn't show well. And that you can't read the speed limits signs. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif At least the focal length on that video camera and the lack of peripheral vision doesn't translate speed well.

Paul, for posting the video, I just uploaded it to photobucket (which I use for nearly all the photos that I post here) and it treats a video clip like a photo as far as "URL", "HTTP" or "IMG". So you can place it into your post just like a photo.

 

[Tinster]

Paul,

Your regular digital camera has a setting to take
video clips. Point and shoot. Videos post the same
a photos.

Shawn, nice video-for some reason I could not get
any sound from it. So I still have not heard a TR6 engine.

d

 

[LastDeadLast]

Thanks Paul that's exactly what I needed.

 

[Guest]

Paul, using the solid couplers appears to be a better idea, especially if they are a precision fit. To me, if the fit is snug, the alignment of the carbs would be a bit more precise and would allow that final tweaking of the fit. That said, I am using the spring clips and have had to realign my carbs twice to try and get the shaft to be truly parallel. I am only able to eyeball them so I know they are not truly perfect, hence the possibility of wear inside the carbs where the shaft ride. The downside to the Goodparts triple intake is the fact that the individual components never are in perfect alignment. I had my head flowed to match the intakes, and they were way off (the intakes, not the head). I have it as good as it gets, which is not really that good. I wish that the triple intake were a solid unit with precision-bored carb holes, or holes that could be aligned to the three carbs.

On the throttle linkage, no matter how new or good your stock-style modified linkage is, you will never get 100% throttle response. You will find that a cable will allow you to get very rapid and complete throttle action, compared to a complicated mechanical apparatus. Most modern fuel systems use cables for that very reason.

 

[RobT]

Seems to me that the spring clips would allow the carbs to move about a little independently whereas the solid couplings - the only solid connection between the three carbs - could put some additional stress on the butterfly shaft bearings. Just a thought.

Rob.

 

[Guest]

The spring clips, especially because the two shaft ends approximate each other so closely (they almost touch), really have no flexibility to them, they are tightened down so snugly.

 

[bobh]

Bill,
How far off were the manifold ports? I've seen a couple of different intake manifold designs for installing Weber on a straight 6. One was modular, like the Goodparts arrangement. The other was one piece.
My guess is the reason for the 3 pieces on the Goodparts setup is due to the low number of units produced and the welding. Welding distorts metal. Trying to weld all of these onto one flange might warp the material beyond the capabilities of machining to correct.
You could pin the manifold(s) to the head, to insure consistant placement. Then match the intake bores to the head ports. Although it's beyond the capability of most of us, the bores could be welded to add material and bored to acheive a better match.
I think the problems you ran into with the fit on your header was due to weld distortion.
A cast manifold may be the answer. I don't know if anyone would want to take on that project.
I bought Alan Atkinson's manifold, soon I will be going through the set-up and linkage blues like the rest of you.