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TR6 Transmission Removal Anything Special To Know

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Hi,

I'm going to pull the transmission on my TR6 to get at the clutch. The clutch is very stiff, but I will start another thread on that once I found out what I've got in there.

The body is off, so I have easy access and lots of room. I have read up on the process in the shop manual but there isn't much info in it. I will fabricate a support for the back end of the engine.

Is there anything I should know about the process, such as locating dowels etc. to keep an eye out for?

Thanks

Todd.
 
There were originally two "dowel bolts" that located the bell housing to the rear plate. Its not uncommon to find that someone has substituted ordinary bolts.

I couldn't find them for my Stag, so I made some up from drill rod. But the TR6 version is probably available. Or you can substitute ordinary dowels. 3/8" diameter IIRC.
 
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Don't want to upset the apple cart, but if it's a TR6 and not stiff, that is a problem. My wife can't drive mine any more due to angle problems and wants me to put in a automatic. Yeah, that's going to happen. LOL
If you are doing it with the body off, a much easier task. Couple of things to replace while easy access. The rear seal on the engine and pilot bearing. Front and rear seals on the transmission, drain and flush with diesel fuel and add new GL4 oil.
Good luck, Wayne
 
To a rather large extent, I have to agree with trrdster2000 regarding the TR6 clutch. They have a rather heavy clutch feel compared to many of the other British cars and the brand of clutch used is a factor in this. The article from Buckeye Triumphs below talks about the force required for some different brands of TR6 clutch covers as well as throw out bearing options, it also shows the location of the dowels mentioned in TR3driver's post. The primary item that I can tell you from the "voice of bad experience" is that if you do wind up going with a Gunst type throw out bearing, they will not work with a Borg & Beck clutch cover. I installed a Gunst bearing about a dozen or so years ago and could not get my clutch to operate properly so I contacted Herr Gunst to discuss the issue. He asked about the clutch cover and as soon as I said Borg & Beck, he indicated that they only used LUK in his shop but he was starting to hear about issues when a B&B clutch cover was fitted. Further e-mails ensued and his investigation indicated that due to the curved diaphragm fingers on the B&B clutch covers and the rounded surface of the Gunst bearing, the bearing had trouble "seating" on the clutch cover which meant that the clutch would not operate properly. He then stated that he was going to update the installation instructions to say don't use a B&B clutch cover with my bearing. I picked up an LUK cover and suddenly all was right with the world. Hr. Gunst has since departed this serene scene but his release bearing lives on, see BPNW links as well.

https://buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ReliableClutch/ReliableClutch.htm

https://www.bpnorthwest.com/release-bearing-hd-and-bronze-sleeve-tr4a-to-tr6.html

https://www.bpnorthwest.com/clutch-kit-sach-german-tr4a-to-tr6.html

trrdster2000, perhaps you should take a look at the thread below that talks about adding a single hydraulic line brake booster booster to the clutch hydraulics to reduce pedal effort.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?110320-power-assist-for-clutch-pedal
 
Tybalt, I'm believe I see a conspiracy here. She didn't call you, did she?
I'm building her a Spit6 at the moment, which should get her out of my Jag and TR6. Just waiting on her to give me a color, all else is ready to be put together. Last I heard dark gray metallic. Should look good with black powder coated bolt on spoke wheels. Couple of other goodies. Another time.
Wayne
 
trrdster2000 said:
Tybalt, I'm believe I see a conspiracy here. She didn't call you, did she? ......
Click to expand...

No conspiracy or calls, just saw your comment about clutch pedal effort plus the request to install a "slushie" and figured that the booster might be of interest. On the other hand, if the goal is to get her out of the TR6, would it qualify as a conspiracy if I told you to forget what I had said earlier about the booster?
 
TR3driver said:
There were originally two "dowel bolts" that located the bell housing to the rear plate. Its not uncommon to find that someone has substituted ordinary bolts.

I couldn't find them for my Stag, so I made some up from drill rod. But the TR6 version is probably available. Or you can substitute ordinary dowels. 3/8" diameter IIRC.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will keep an eye out for them. At this point I have no idea if any work has been done on the clutch at all, so I will see once the trans is off.
 
trrdster2000 said:
Don't want to upset the apple cart, but if it's a TR6 and not stiff, that is a problem. My wife can't drive mine any more due to angle problems and wants me to put in a automatic. Yeah, that's going to happen. LOL
If you are doing it with the body off, a much easier task. Couple of things to replace while easy access. The rear seal on the engine and pilot bearing. Front and rear seals on the transmission, drain and flush with diesel fuel and add new GL4 oil.
Good luck, Wayne
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip about flushing the trans. I replacing the seals on the engine that can be accessed without doing a rebuild is in the plan.
 
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