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TR6 Transmission keeps getting stuck.

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IsaacChristensen

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I can drive around for a little bit and the trans is okay, but once the car heats up the trans starts sticking in gear and I can’t move it without feeling like something’s going to break, and it grinds when I try to put it in reverse. But then the most confusing part is sometimes it just goes right back to working perfectly fine, no sticking no nothing.

I’m wondering if there’s something in the trans or maybe the clutch is having problems.

I’m really confused and would love to hear if someone else has had similar problems.
 
Topped it off with what? I tried the 30 weight non-detergent oil that some owners run and quickly switched back to the redline gear oil for o/d gear boxes and my (short lived) shifting problems went away. That was over 10 years ago and it has been fine since…
 
charlie74 said:
Topped it off with what? I tried the 30 weight non-detergent oil that some owners run and quickly switched back to the redline gear oil for o/d gear boxes and my (short lived) shifting problems went away. That was over 10 years ago and it has been fine since…
Click to expand...
:iagree:
 
Your description is a clutch problem, not tranny. It is not releasing fully, although the question is why it is intermittent. Check to make sure there is not carpet or mats fouling the pedal. Then bleed your clutch system. If that still doesn't fix it, then look closely for worn linkages and make an adjustment by the book.
 
charlie74 said:
Topped it off with what? I tried the 30 weight non-detergent oil that some owners run and quickly switched back to the redline gear oil for o/d gear boxes and my (short lived) shifting problems went away. That was over 10 years ago and it has been fine since…
Click to expand...
I topped it off with the same stuff I’ve used in it for a while.
 
CJD said:
Your description is a clutch problem, not tranny. It is not releasing fully, although the question is why it is intermittent. Check to make sure there is not carpet or mats fouling the pedal. Then bleed your clutch system. If that still doesn't fix it, then look closely for worn linkages and make an adjustment by the book.
Click to expand...
This is helpful thank you
CJD said:
Again...not a transmission issue...
Click to expand...
Yep… I got that… but I had to… start…. Somewhere…..
 
CJD said:
Your description is a clutch problem, not tranny. It is not releasing fully, although the question is why it is intermittent. Check to make sure there is not carpet or mats fouling the pedal. Then bleed your clutch system. If that still doesn't fix it, then look closely for worn linkages and make an adjustment by the book.
Click to expand...
John I am having the same issue with the TR6 trans in my TR3 specially after a hard run when I try to get into reverse! If I need to make an adjustment do I need to check the distance between the "MC clutch rod to the stop bolt" or should I not even have a stop bolt there at all? As for the slave cylinder adjustment.......I find that I tend to break the stock return spring when I try to install it. I substituted a large generic spring the last time it broke and it is still there. Would too much force from that spring be causing the problem? Do I disconnect the return spring when adjusting the slave rod? Karl
 
IsaacChristensen said:
I can drive around for a little bit and the trans is okay, but once the car heats up the trans starts sticking in gear and I can’t move it without feeling like something’s going to break, and it grinds when I try to put it in reverse. But then the most confusing part is sometimes it just goes right back to working perfectly fine, no sticking no nothing.

I’m wondering if there’s something in the trans or maybe the clutch is having problems.

I’m really confused and would love to hear if someone else has had similar problems.
Click to expand...
I bled the clutch like you’re supposed to and now the clutch won’t engage at all. I can’t shift into any gear and reverse still grinds.

I could have done something wrong but I looks like everything should be working but it just isn’t.
 
IsaacChristensen said:
I bled the clutch like you’re supposed to and now the clutch won’t engage at all. I can’t shift into any gear and reverse still grinds.

I could have done something wrong but I looks like everything should be working but it just isn’t.
Click to expand...
When the engine is idling and you press the clutch pedal to the floor, do the rpms drop any ?
 
I was once diving into my garage and everything in the gear shift froze. Luckily I was home. I couldn't shift into any gear. Even scarier, just moments earlier I couldn’t shift from first to second, or even into neutral. I stalled right there. I know we could all send you on a mission to nowhere, but in my case here’s what happened: The anti-rattle button popped out of its slot and jammed the shifting selector shafts in “H-Bay,” right below the ball of the lever gearshift. It was that crazy little button. So, I ordered a new one and spent all the time to remove and reinstall. Then, the new button popped out and I was stuck at a coffee shop. Suddenly, however, it must have dislodged and I got home. A week later it jammed again. Now, I go without the anti-rattle button and I’ve had no problems. You can check that button without removing the transmission, of course, but it’s still a hassle depending on how your TR6 console in built. Only a thought. Your issue may be entirely different.
 
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It sounds like you did not bleed properly. If you have a helper, have them put pressure on the clutch pedal while you crack the bleeder. Tell them not to, under any circumstances, release the pedal until you have closed the bleeder and tell them they can release. Use a clear tubing on the bleeder for 2 reasons...one, to be able to see the air bubbles stop coming out...two, to prevent air from sucking back in. If it sucks, it will suck the displaced fluid instead of air.

When bleeding, never open the bleeder more than 1/2 turn. If opened too far, then air will be drawn into the slave cylinder through the threads.

I never have a helper, so here is how I bleed:

1) Open the reservoir and top up with the correct fluid. Leave the cap off for now.
2) Place a 2ft or so length of clear tubing over the nipple on the bleeder screw. Place the free end into a cup or can.
3) Crack the bleeder until you just see fluid in the clear line. Then sit back and watch the bubbles.
4) Top up the reservoir as necessary while allowing gravity to bleed the system.
5) When you see no more bubbles, close the bleeder screw. Note...if you open the bleeder too far (one turn or more), then you will draw air into the bleeder threads and see continuous bubbles. Close the bleeder a bit until the air stops sucking in.

One final note. If doing the gravity method above you cannot get any fluid to drain from the bleeder, then your master cylinder is not properly primed. It has a bubble in it that prevents fluid from flowing. In this case you will have to resort to pumping the pedal with a helper until the Master Cylinder primes.
 
Karl...the stop bolt by the master cylinder was deleted in later cars. In the early cars its purpose was to prevent damaging the piston in the master cylinder if someone had a habit of really standing on the pedal. The later, independent master cylinders were designed to take the abuse, so the stop bolts were deleted. Anyway, if you want to adjust the stop bolt, back the bolt off a good amount. Then, have someone press the pedal to the floor and hold it. While your helper holds the pedal, tighten the stop until it contacts the lever, and then about 1/2 turn more. Lock the nut there and you are good.

If your stops are adjusted too tight, then you may have a limited travel on your clutch (or brakes, which don't matter as much).

As for your return spring on the Slave...It sounds like maybe you have the bracket or keeper on the wrong side of the bellhousing. I'd have to see a picture to tell which...
 
CJD said:
It sounds like you did not bleed properly. If you have a helper, have them put pressure on the clutch pedal while you crack the bleeder. Tell them not to, under any circumstances, release the pedal until you have closed the bleeder and tell them they can release. Use a clear tubing on the bleeder for 2 reasons...one, to be able to see the air bubbles stop coming out...two, to prevent air from sucking back in. If it sucks, it will suck the displaced fluid instead of air.

When bleeding, never open the bleeder more than 1/2 turn. If opened too far, then air will be drawn into the slave cylinder through the threads.

I never have a helper, so here is how I bleed:

1) Open the reservoir and top up with the correct fluid. Leave the cap off for now.
2) Place a 2ft or so length of clear tubing over the nipple on the bleeder screw. Place the free end into a cup or can.
3) Crack the bleeder until you just see fluid in the clear line. Then sit back and watch the bubbles.
4) Top up the reservoir as necessary while allowing gravity to bleed the system.
5) When you see no more bubbles, close the bleeder screw. Note...if you open the bleeder too far (one turn or more), then you will draw air into the bleeder threads and see continuous bubbles. Close the bleeder a bit until the air stops sucking in.

One final note. If doing the gravity method above you cannot get any fluid to drain from the bleeder, then your master cylinder is not properly primed. It has a bubble in it that prevents fluid from flowing. In this case you will have to resort to pumping the pedal with a helper until the Master Cylinder primes.
Click to expand...
CJD said:
It sounds like you did not bleed properly. If you have a helper, have them put pressure on the clutch pedal while you crack the bleeder. Tell them not to, under any circumstances, release the pedal until you have closed the bleeder and tell them they can release. Use a clear tubing on the bleeder for 2 reasons...one, to be able to see the air bubbles stop coming out...two, to prevent air from sucking back in. If it sucks, it will suck the displaced fluid instead of air.

When bleeding, never open the bleeder more than 1/2 turn. If opened too far, then air will be drawn into the slave cylinder through the threads.

I never have a helper, so here is how I bleed:

1) Open the reservoir and top up with the correct fluid. Leave the cap off for now.
2) Place a 2ft or so length of clear tubing over the nipple on the bleeder screw. Place the free end into a cup or can.
3) Crack the bleeder until you just see fluid in the clear line. Then sit back and watch the bubbles.
4) Top up the reservoir as necessary while allowing gravity to bleed the system.
5) When you see no more bubbles, close the bleeder screw. Note...if you open the bleeder too far (one turn or more), then you will draw air into the bleeder threads and see continuous bubbles. Close the bleeder a bit until the air stops sucking in.

One final note. If doing the gravity method above you cannot get any fluid to drain from the bleeder, then your master cylinder is not properly primed. It has a bubble in it that prevents fluid from flowing. In this case you will have to resort to pumping the pedal with a helper until the Master Cylinder primes.
Click to expand...
That’s exactly what I did and I saw no bubbles, the clutch pedal is as firm as ever, so it looks like this is an internal problem rather than just a simple bleed the clutch issue.
 
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