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Transmission/Clutch Advice?

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AlfaHealey

Freshman Member
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Well, your original assessment was correct...the clutch is gone. I did manage to get the Healey going by putting it on jack stands and freeing up the stuck rear wheels. That lasted one extremely time until I dragged my 300 lb. buddy along and we barely were able to pull back into the driveway where the engine reved away while we just sat motionless. I checked through prior threads on clutch repairs and have a few questions: Are there any tips to make transmission removal and clutch replacement easier? Since this isn't the original transmission (center shift on 1959 100-6), do I have to dissassemble to check clutch type/size before ordering replacement? Are there any heavy duty clutches available and from where? Worth it? Are there any other things to check/do while transmission and OD are out? Can OD be checked when removed? Thanks much, Eric /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Well your initial dilema said clutch to me AlfaHealey.

Yes if it is not the original correct tranny I suggest you pull the tranny and Identify the clutch disk size and throwout bearing model.
Yes there are heavy duty clutches available.However, if you do a lot of in town driving I do not recommend them as they will break your leg /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif.Ordering a Borg and Beck replacement will serve you for many miles and they are strong enough.While the tranny is out be sure and also replace the spigot bearing in the flywheel center. Does it leak oil at the rear main you might consider installing an aftermarket rear oil seal. I think most of the usual suspects can supply a Borg and Beck clutch assembly. Operationally the "OD" cannot be checked while out of the car. If it was working ok it will soldier on--Fwiw--Keoke
 
While the tranny is out of the car anyway, why not replace the oil seals on each end? Also verify the bell housing attachment bolts are tight and secure. Since it's out of the car already replace/rebuild the clutch slave cylinder and check the actuating rod for ovality. This can be checked by pushing down on the clutch and observing the length the rod pushes out.
By doing all these simple things ahead of time will make the new clutch work well indeed.
 
I recommend you change to a BJ8 flywheel, clutch and diaphram style pressure plate as well as the rear seal.
You can probably trade the 100-6 type for a lightened MKIII flywheel from Bill Bolton. He is reasonable and you get a bit quicker revs. The bolt pattern is different on the 100-6 and MKIII flywheel where the pressure plate bolts on.
So 3 options:
Have a machine shop change the bolt location on the 100-6 flywheel (non-lightened) to accept the diaphram pressure plate.
Or change to a MKIII flywheel.
Or lightened MKIII flywheel. <<<-preferred by me.

The clutch action and "grab" is smoother and has a more "assured" feel. The lighter flywheel give a bit quicker revving.

vroom !!!

disclaimer - No financial interest, just a satisfied consumer of clutches and I DO NOT speak for Bill. so there!
 
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