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Wedge TR8 Radiator

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RSMTR8

RSMTR8

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My mechanic told me he recommends me replacing the 26 year old radiator as it is starting to look really worn. What is the best thing to go with? I want whatever will keep the car running as COOL as possible, as I do not have A/C, never did, the car does not have any electric cooling fans, so I want somehting to help keep it running nice and COOL in the summer time!

Thanks!

Rod
 
I was concerned about mine running hot, I had taken a trip to the big city (Pittsburgh)in the 90 degree 90% humidity days and it was running warmer than usual so I called Woody and he recommended a aluminum one. Wedge parts guy likes aluminum too, Ted says they crack too easy, lots of advise out there. I really like the Aluminum one so far. Noticable cooler running, was an exact match so other than the bolt I snapped off on the radiator mount it was an easy swap. I did flush my system before I installed my new one. The make was a griffin so you make want to shop around for prices.
 
Thanks, did you buy the radiator from Woody, or somewhere in town? Also, do you have a model #? I called what is the largest Radaitor shop here in town, and no luck the only thing they said they could do was a core swap. I would prefer to replace the entire unit with something that will help run it cooler. Thanks!


Rod
 
I bought it directly from Woody but I a not so sure I could not have got a better price going straight to griffin. It was a tad expensive but worth it in the long run I guess. I would recommend swapping to electric fans too.
 
I just dealt with some radiator problems last month on my TR8. My top tube split wide open. Had the tube replaced and the entire radiator cleaned out and pressure tested for $45. YMMV. Other than my new top tube the rest is still original though.

Rod, Be glad you don't have A/C in this matter. It will make pulling your old radiator and then installing the new one MUCH easier.

Scott, did you break one of the bolts for the support that goes into the subframe? Those were rather troublesome but I eventually got them in. The whole thing came apart pretty easy but was a real pain to get back together.

Before my radiator broke both fans would come on during the hot days. Usually the high speed fan will only come on when the A/C is on but mine would come on because the coolant temp would keep climbing. If I was in heavy traffic the low speed fan couldn't handle the temps on its own. Now, on hot days, and we have had a few in the mid to high 90's since, the high speed fan doesn't kick on even when I'm sitting in traffic. The low speed fan can handle the heat without issue now and when I have open roads in front of me the temp needle actually drops.

Rod, if you have upped the performance, increased compression etc..., of your engine then chances are you will need a better radiator than the stock one. Though a new core might also be able to handle it. Ted sells his exchange, Woody and Brad do like the aluminum rads, or your local shop could also re-core it. Last time I had a re-core done it was around $200 though. Often times they can improve the cooling efficiency and keep the same size on a re-core. Since they have to disassemble and then reassemble your old radiator for its tanks you get a practically new radiator. Practically because the old brass tanks have still 'work hardened' and they do become more brittle with age. That is not likely to be a problem though.

While your at it, make sure you put new hoses on when you change the radiator unless you already have new hoses.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Do you have the Griffin model #? Also, mind telling me what you paid?

Thanks!
 
I snapped the upper right bolt, still have not replaced it because I can not get my tap in to it, I am thinking about how to do it but have not come up with a way to get it out unless I remove some body parts (the cars, not mine). Any suggerstions?

I noticed yesterday my fans are not ramping up to the "high" mode. I have no idea how that works either. Any experts out there? I know it is two cycles but I have no idea how they ramp. <font color="red"> </font> <font color="red"> </font>
 
Good luck on the broken bolt. That is probably a drill and re-tap situation. Maybe someone on the wedgelist of the TR8CCA has been there and done that. Luckily, I haven't yet.

My low speed fan comes on when the needle is just below the half mark on the guage. The high speed comes on just after it crosses over the half mark. Double check your fuses just to be safe. After my radiator was recently cleaned out and repaired, it takes quite a bit of idling for even the low speed fan to come on. As soon as air starts flowing through it again the needle will vary from the 1/4 mark to just below the 1/2 mark, just shy of fan activation, depending upon speed and ambient temp.
 
D Scott,

ANy chance you can take a look at the Radiator for me and check a model # for me?!

Thanks!

Rod
 
PATR8,
the temp switch which turns the fans on in low speed is mounted in the top L/H side of the rad.
The switch which turns them on in high speed in mounted in the front of the intake manifold (stock), do you have an after market manifold? if so it's possible that the switch was never installed, look for a round unit about 1 1/2" diameter with 2 wires connected to it. Of course if it's not there you will only get low speed unless some one has altered the wiring to turn them on at high speed through the rad temp switch.
There is a definite flow and noise difference between low and high though.
 
The Radiators that Woody has made up are custom units. There is no part number. It took several months and two tries to get them built.(they lost the drawings from the first core he sent in) I put one in my race car and it is fantastic. If you are a vendor and want to purchase several at a time, I am sure that you will be able to buy them directly from Griffin and save the $25 to $50 markup Woody is getting.
 
Airfix, I do have an aftermarket manifold, so I am on low speed, how do I get the fans to spin on high? The fans are run on a seperate circuit now that kicks them on with the engine, not even attached to any temp sensor. There has to be a way to do it. Is it just by increasing the amps or how, I do not know, Any ideas?
 
I would personally buy from Woody cause if something were wrong he would make it right and frankly he is a master trouble shooter and helps me way more than I buy from him it seems like (well maybe not this year since I am trying to get my 8 up to par).
 
PATR8,
on a stock car when the fans run in low speed mode they are in series and share 12 volts, each getting about 6 volts. When the high temp switch closes at 216-226f(the one that is in the intake manifold on stock cars) they each receive 12 volts independently and therefore run at full speed.
If you are using the stock dual fan set up it's probably not a good idea to run them continuosly at high speed, heard lots of comments of the chances of melting the wiring especially at the connectors due to the high continuous current draw.
I suspect that the wires which should be connected to the low temp switch, 199f(the one in the rad top l/h side) have been spliced together to give continuous operation.
Run your car with the rad cap loose until fully warm and stick a cooking thermometer in the header tank and rev it a bit to get a good coolant flow, if the temp is below 210f you probably don't need high speed anyway.
My low speeds come on with the temp needle at 1/2 and the high speeds come on at just below 3/4. lots of differences in the stock temp gauge readings though.
Look for 2 wires on top of the intake manifold area, a gray and red and a white, if you connect these together your fans will run in high speed (assuming stock dual fans and all relays still installed), one other alternative if this works is to splice extensions to these 2 wires and run them into the car and connect to a toggle switch, this way you would have manual control of high speed to use when the temp gauge rises too high for comfort.
I have connected small lights to my fan circuits, 1 for low speed and 1 for high speed, easy to do and I can see when they are running.
Garry
1980 TR8
Sureey B.C.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I have connected small lights to my fan circuits, 1 for low speed and 1 for high speed, easy to do and I can see when they are running.
Garry
1980 TR8

[/ QUOTE ]

Theres a good idea. I have to open the bonnet to see if my low speed fan is running. Can't hear it kick on it's so quiet. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
Well I Played around yesterday with the fans, talked to woody and finally the eletrician next door stopped over for his friday beer and chat. W have pretty much figured the fans are "tired". I will try one or two more things then order an aftermarket set up.
 
we were using the test gauges and we checked the volts at different spots of the harness. It was 12 before the relay but leaving the relays we could never register more than 8 volts. I am not quite sure what the answer is right now. The more I look at the harness the more I realize what a butchered job the previous owner did on it. I have an Auto cross tomorrow and I will post some pics if any are worth while
 
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