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Wedge TR8 is running

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PATR8

PATR8

Jedi Knight
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It has been a long trip this spring/summer rebuilding my engine. I got it in my car but then could not get the trans cross member bolted on then Todd steered me straighten out and I got it in.

I tried to turn my carb around so it was facing forward but the throttle the bound up on a runner from the manifold so I bought a spacer, but I could tell immediately it was way too high, so the carb is back on backwards.

Then I tried to turn the engine over and nothing. I turned it over by hand fine, hit the starter and it turned over, go figure.

Then it would not start but I figured correctly the timing and got it started but the timing is still off but I will fix that this week end.

I have it running fine and the oil gauge reads 20 at idle and 50 at running speed, but the oil light is coming on now, any ideas what may be causing that?

I still have to bleed the brakes, go back over all the bolts and nuts to make sure it is safe to drive.

I definately want to go to a larger diameter exhaust, probably a 2 inch now I heard it with my 1 3/4. I always thought they were too small but now after all this time I am going to go back and get it done correct. Suggestion there on diameter?
 
the car was on a slight incline but after I pulled it back in the garage the oil was still in the safe range. I bet, just a hunch, I may have forgot to reconnect the sending unit. Will check that tomorrow
 
I used to make up my own exhausts, but the last two were done by a local specialty exhaust shop. They were done in 2.5 inch aluminized steel for around $500 to $550, and that price included mufflers, hangers, and header flanges. Price may vary a bit depending on which mufflers you pick out. 2.5" is a little overkill for a 3.5liter, so 2.25 may be more appropriate. I'm very satisfied with the way they came out and the way they sound. Only issue was they hung the mid pipes from the holes in the floor where the seat bolts went on the car I took in with no interior. I doubt you missed plugging in the wires. They are part of a three pronged adapter that will not send power to the fuel pump if there is no oil pressure. That is unless it was previously modified to send power to the fuel pump independent of the oil switch as is the case on many TR8s.
 
Good to here your back running, what oil weight are you going to use?
My 8 is still all original, and the service book calls for 20/50,
i've been hearing i should go to 30w.
thanks tom
 
yeah!!!
 
I am currently mobile 1synth 20/50. Previously I always ran straight 30w. The previous owner hacked the wiring and I have added my own hacking to it make it run
 
20/50 THANKS,

you know, i've got 2 switchs under my dash, the p.o. did a good job with them,
one to the fan, one to the pump,
guess i'm lucky,
tom
 
Make sure you also throw in a ZDDP additive, or you won't have any cam lobes after a few thousand miles. I use Castrol and ZDDPlus, but have also used straight Royal Purple, and Brad Penn.
 
Nice to hear that you are up and running.

I dropped mine off for a serious nose and rear bumper change today. I hope to have it back by the end of next week.
 
I had my 8 running a little, took it a ride up and down the driveway a few times, the oil pressure light went out, getting the insurance back on it tomorrow, on the road by Sunday, with a little luck
 
I am currently mobile 1synth 20/50. Previously I always ran straight 30w. The previous owner hacked the wiring and I have added my own hacking to it make it run
 
i was looking for some Mobile 20/50 at work but we were sold out,
found the Kendall synth with zddp on a back shelf, gd price.
let me know how the hacking is going.
tom
 
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