• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Wedge TR8 hoses, thermostat, etc

Darrell_Walker

Jedi Knight
Offline
I'm making progress getting down to the heads on my TR8. I've got the plenum
off, and except for the heater hose, the intake is now free. I found that
except for the end bolts, the bolts holding the intake on could be turned with
my fingers. Not sure if/how that factors into my problems, but it probably
isn't a good thing. And the end ones were only hard to get out because they
were so gunked up.

Anyway, I think I'm going to end up cutting the last hose, since it is good
and stuck, and it is hard to get a good hold on it. That ones does appear to
be available. I'd also like to replace all/most of the other hoses (that
carry coolant), but I don't find them listed anywhere. But many may just be
straight hoses that I can get at my FLAPS.

In particular, the two hoses that carry water to the heater core (the fitting
on the bulkhead), are these straight hoses, or should they have bends molded
in? And the little hoses that carry water into the plenum, most look like
straight hoses, but one does do a 90 degree bend. But I think a hose that
size is OK bending.

I also think I'll be replacing my water pump, as I think it was starting to
make some noise as I was flushing the cooling system. Probably will be easier
to change with everything else out of the way. I found on JClay's site about
the missing bypass hole, so I will add that. There was also a picture of two
bypass holes in the intake. I haven't noticed any temp problems, but should I
do those as well? Also, what temp thermostat to people run in the 8s? The
ROM says 190, but I see others offered as well.
 
If the heater core hoses are the same on FI as carbed 8s, then you can use straight hose and bend them. Messing with the t-stat temp on a FI system might cause some issues, so I'd stay with the stock setting. The issues you would see with temp spikes and air bubbles in the cooling are in the first week of driving after draining and refilling the coolant system. There are high spots that let air pockets form. It's important to burp the system several times after you get it running again. Don't be afraid to overfill slightly and have some of the coolant discharge out of the system. I have extra large aluminum radiators in all of my TR8s and the stock coolant reservoir isn't large enough to do its job properly. Seems like it's almost empty when cool, and ready to overflow when warm. The bigger rad holds an extra gallon of coolant.
 
Thanks, Todd.

I got the thermostat housing open, and it had a 180 (and without the jiggle-pin or a breather hole). I think I'm going to put in a stock 190 thermostat.

I did find stock of the rear heater hoses at Wedge Parts, and they do appear to have a molded in bend, and they are fairly reasonable.

It looks like there was some definite leaks around the valley gasket, both coolant and oil.

I should get the heads off this weekend.

-Darrell
 
Back
Top