• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
  • When posting a classified ad, you MUST select a prefix from the drop-down next to the subject line. If you don't you will get an error and your ad will not be posted!
Tips
Tips

Wedge TR8 adjustable control arms

tr8todd

Jedi Knight
Offline
I need to make up a couple of more sets of adjustable upper rear control arms. With these arms, you turn them to lengthen or shorten them. This allows you to rotate the rear axle to get a better pinion angle. Most of the TR8s out there are either running lower springs on a stock rear end or are running a Ford rear end, which causes the rear end to rotate. The ones I have made up in the past use urethane bushed rod ends that have a grease fitting. They screw into either a steel or aluminum rod tube, and lock down with lock nuts. If this sounds interesting to anybody, I can post the info so you can order them up yourself. I'm not trying to make any money here, just spreading the do it yourself TR8 improvements gospel. Here is a link to the place where I get the rod ends. The rods can be purchased at all of the speed part dealers, but the bushed rod ends are hard to find.

https://www.suicidedoors.com/catalog/4-link-parts/4-link-bushings
 
Being able to set your pinion angle is great for racing. When we road raced cars with solid live axles rear ends (Mazdas and Alfas), we would always set our pinion angles at 7 degrees (pinion down) which would help rotate the torque to the rear tires. Never tried it on cars with an independent rear suspenion. Bill C. Mesa, Az.
 
TR8s have a solid axle. My only experience with independent rears is the one in my BMW 2002. One thing I forgot to mention in the first post. Our control arms are 1 7/8" wide and 1 3/4" round. The smallest the ones in the above link are 2" by 2". You have to shave a 1/16' off of both sides to get them to fit. The center steel sleeve also needs to be replaced because the TR8 only uses a 7/16 mounting bolt.
 
Welcome 7's and 8's
Where in the MD are you?
 
I ordered up the pieces to put them together over the weekend. Once I get them and screw them together, I'll snap a photo. Right now all I have here is ones with standard rod ends. They are the spherical steel bearing type and were on one of the TR8 race cars. Some people use them on street cars, but I find them too harsh for a road going car. I'll go out to the garage an dig them out and snap a photo. They won't have the bushed rod end, but you can get the idea.
 
Here is what they look like with spherical rod ends and aluminum spacers.
 

Attachments

  • 20051.jpg
    20051.jpg
    53.7 KB · Views: 225
Another Frederick area guy.
Are you familiar with Mike who is toward Gettysburg I believe.
 
I am still waiting on some pieces. I decided to make up a couple of lower control arms with adjustable spring perches while I was at it. I have parts coming from 4 different places. As far as the top bars go, I ordered aluminum tubes from Afco. Stock length is just over 17" center to center, so use a 13" rod. The rod ends will make up the rest of the length.

https://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatech_US...e=hp_alum-tubes

The bushed rod ends came from the site I posted above. You will need two right hand and two left hand threaded rod ends. Go with the 3/4 16 threaded ones that are 2" wide. They will need to be cut down to 1 7/8 wide, but thats not a big deal. They only come with a sleeve that accepts a 9/16 bolt. Stock rear mounting bolts are 7/16. You will need new sleeves or drill the mounts and use larger bolts. Just screw them together and mount them on the car.

The lower mounts are much more difficult. They require some cutting and welding DOM steel tube. They have to be very strong to support the springs.
 
Back
Top