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Wedge TR7 Waterpump housing

mgb4tim

Jedi Trainee
Offline
I picked up a NOS pump a few weeks back ($125, not bad!) and finally stripped everything out of the way tonight.

I can't get that blasted WP cover off! Yes, I took the three bolts off, I've hit it a couple times with PB Blaster...nothing!

I'm tempted to try prying but I don't fee like buying a new WP cover once I crack it.

Now what? Crank the engine to see if it pushed it self off?
 
Hi, Tim -

Although I've never wrenched on a TR7, I have heard of the difficulty with changing out the water pump.

Check here for an article about it. This is from the Waringstown TR7 website across the pond. Good stuff!

https://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/waterpump.htm

Let us know how you fare.

Mickey
 
it took me about an hour of wiggling the cover up and down to free the danged thing. i tapped the water port with my mallet lightly then wiggled up and down and tapped the water port again, etc. after getting the cover off the water pump was easy to get out. i tried cranking the engine and that didn't work for me.
 
i have one off a 1981 fi model if you end up damaging that one beyond repair. only pay for shipping. not sure if it's the same as on carbureted models or not.
 
Hi Tim, Dont allow a simple water pump to get the best of you. It hasnt been apart in years and the aluminum cover has grown roots into the cast block. Keep tapping and be patient, it'll come. After you manage to get the cover off, sometimes the pump can be a real booger to get out as well. Once again, dont let a simple water pump get the best of you. If done right, you will most likely never have to do this procedure again. Keep reminding yourself how satisfying it will be to drive the car when you get the best of the silly water pump.

Steve
 
Time to break out the fire wrench! Heat it, cool it, heat it, cool it, till it comes out. If you break it, I should have a couple laying around. Remember, the tough part is removing the pump itself. Those suckers weld themselves in there. Most have to be chiseled out. Just one more reason to dislike 4 cylinder wedges.
 
The last time I changed one, I had to fabricate a way to attach my slide hammer to the impeller nut so that I could jerk the shaft out of the block.

When I yanked the shaft out, it left the bearing race behind. I then had to fabricate a hook for the slide hammer so that I could get the race out.

A little frustrating but not a horrible job.
 
mgb4tim said:
oh, this SOB won't even wiggle. I'm thinking of tapping - very gently- a nice new sharp chisel into the gasket.
It sounds like the PO or last mechanic used a firm setting or hardening gasket sealer.

You will need to get a sharp thin shop knife, work around the gaskets. Then have a look at the dust that is coming off. If it looks white and powdery, you may need a gasket solvent spray. This will help dissolve the hardening type sealer and allow you to get the blade into the gasket. Once into the gasket, a little patience and working with the shop knife around the edges will get it loose.
 
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