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Wedge tr7 electric fuel pump
- Thread starter johnrip
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Got_All_4
Luke Skywalker
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Surprised no one has answered your question. This may help but my experience is with my TR250 and TR3 but my Tr7 is fuel injected. I have gone back and forth with the electronic fuel pump for the 250 several times. First i want to say that I strongly recommend and prefer staying with the original OEM set up. Unless your cam lobe is worn and your only alternative is replacing the cam in which the electric pump would be a much cheaper solution. . What got me to change from the mechanical pump to the electric pump the first time was the diaphragm developed a hole in it and 5 gallons of gasoline seeped into the engine sump and good thing I caught it in time or that could have been disastrous.
My first attempt went well but like anything back yard engineered there are unintentional consequences. In the event that the car stalls or is in an accident you want the fuel pump to shut off. So you should install a oil pressure switch so when pressure is lost the pump shuts off. Now after long periods of sitting like over the winter for me the fuel evaporates out of the carbs and there is no fuel for the initial start up in the spring so the engine won't start to get that initial surge of fuel to fill the float bowels.
Your electric fuel pump should be rated from 1.5 lbs to no more then 4 lbs of pressure. Get a name brand pump for reliability (Facet or EMPI) as the pumps you buy at your local big AP stores are China made and have heard stories of them lasting for in some cases only hours.
I went back to the mechanical fuel pump when I heard Moss had come out with an improved version so I switch back because of the starting issues. Went thru 2 improved pumps in 3 years and the 2nd one was last year at TRFs Summer Party right after the Le-mans start. Luckily a friend had a electric Facet pump that he carries for a back up and that got me back to TRF where I bought one of their "new and improved" fuel pumps for $99. Twice the Moss price. We'll see who out last who.
So what I am now doing is staying with the OEM set up. I have now put to gather a possibles bag with an electric fuel pump in each bag for each car in each trunk. Except the 7 of course. The 1st Ebay link is for one like I purchased from JC Whitney exactly like this one and is a EMPI for the TR3. Suppose to be German made for VW's. The 2nd one is one I originally purchased for the 250 and was actual purchased from a local Car Quest and was recommended buy my Triumph mechanic. Said he uses them on MGs and has that tic that you here in OEM MG pumps. Said he never had a failure. Also is suppose to sense pack pressure so you won't over fill the float bowels.. Good luck!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162204956571?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-...ash=item4652e84111:g:nN8AAOSw65FXq8rC&vxp=mtr
My first attempt went well but like anything back yard engineered there are unintentional consequences. In the event that the car stalls or is in an accident you want the fuel pump to shut off. So you should install a oil pressure switch so when pressure is lost the pump shuts off. Now after long periods of sitting like over the winter for me the fuel evaporates out of the carbs and there is no fuel for the initial start up in the spring so the engine won't start to get that initial surge of fuel to fill the float bowels.
Your electric fuel pump should be rated from 1.5 lbs to no more then 4 lbs of pressure. Get a name brand pump for reliability (Facet or EMPI) as the pumps you buy at your local big AP stores are China made and have heard stories of them lasting for in some cases only hours.
I went back to the mechanical fuel pump when I heard Moss had come out with an improved version so I switch back because of the starting issues. Went thru 2 improved pumps in 3 years and the 2nd one was last year at TRFs Summer Party right after the Le-mans start. Luckily a friend had a electric Facet pump that he carries for a back up and that got me back to TRF where I bought one of their "new and improved" fuel pumps for $99. Twice the Moss price. We'll see who out last who.
So what I am now doing is staying with the OEM set up. I have now put to gather a possibles bag with an electric fuel pump in each bag for each car in each trunk. Except the 7 of course. The 1st Ebay link is for one like I purchased from JC Whitney exactly like this one and is a EMPI for the TR3. Suppose to be German made for VW's. The 2nd one is one I originally purchased for the 250 and was actual purchased from a local Car Quest and was recommended buy my Triumph mechanic. Said he uses them on MGs and has that tic that you here in OEM MG pumps. Said he never had a failure. Also is suppose to sense pack pressure so you won't over fill the float bowels.. Good luck!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162204956571?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-...ash=item4652e84111:g:nN8AAOSw65FXq8rC&vxp=mtr
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
I like electric pumps but if your car came with a mechanical pump and it costs less than electric... I agree with the post above that it makes sense to retain the factory pump when possible. That said... I will add my comments.
When using SU or Stromberg carbs the pressure needs to be low. Anything higher than about 3.5 PSI will require a pressure regulator or you will overpower the carb float valves. Should you need a regulator, the Holley low pressure available through Amazon is affordable and much higher quality than the chrome, pancake filter which will be available at the local parts stores.
If you decide on a Facet... again, pay attention to the pressure. Facet makes MANY pumps with different output pressures. Also, shop around. You'll find the same pump available from many sources with a wide range in prices. The common facet is a rectangular brick. There are also cylindrical Facet pumps often referred to as "silver top", "gold top", etc. The rectangular ones are less expensive and work. However, they call for specific mounting angles to insure they operate without issue. I don't remember the cylindrical pumps having that requirement.
There are also a lot of people using Airtex pumps. They have a decent reputation but when assembled with their pre-filter they are LONG and large. However, they are much less expensive than the Facets.
There are a couple of different Carter pumps you will find. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. I have used their gear pumps which make a continuous whine without ticking. They work well but pre-filtration is really important. They also have some "fist sized" electro-mechanical pumps that make a loud ticking sound... much louder than the Facets.
Early British cars did not include any of the pump safety switches mentioned in the post above. Using an oil pressure switch is tricky as mentioned. When the float bowls are dry, having the electric pump fill the float bowls with the turn of the key is a nice plus that is lost with common oil pressure switches (which have to be open until pressure builds which is opposite to the switch used for the dash warning light). I have seen a lot of people recommend using inertia or roll-over switches in place of the oil pressure switch. I have yet to see someone post part numbers for the switches they used.
For more info on pumps see the old thread linked below.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?100543-Airtex-vs-Facet-fuel-pump
When using SU or Stromberg carbs the pressure needs to be low. Anything higher than about 3.5 PSI will require a pressure regulator or you will overpower the carb float valves. Should you need a regulator, the Holley low pressure available through Amazon is affordable and much higher quality than the chrome, pancake filter which will be available at the local parts stores.
If you decide on a Facet... again, pay attention to the pressure. Facet makes MANY pumps with different output pressures. Also, shop around. You'll find the same pump available from many sources with a wide range in prices. The common facet is a rectangular brick. There are also cylindrical Facet pumps often referred to as "silver top", "gold top", etc. The rectangular ones are less expensive and work. However, they call for specific mounting angles to insure they operate without issue. I don't remember the cylindrical pumps having that requirement.
There are also a lot of people using Airtex pumps. They have a decent reputation but when assembled with their pre-filter they are LONG and large. However, they are much less expensive than the Facets.
There are a couple of different Carter pumps you will find. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. I have used their gear pumps which make a continuous whine without ticking. They work well but pre-filtration is really important. They also have some "fist sized" electro-mechanical pumps that make a loud ticking sound... much louder than the Facets.
Early British cars did not include any of the pump safety switches mentioned in the post above. Using an oil pressure switch is tricky as mentioned. When the float bowls are dry, having the electric pump fill the float bowls with the turn of the key is a nice plus that is lost with common oil pressure switches (which have to be open until pressure builds which is opposite to the switch used for the dash warning light). I have seen a lot of people recommend using inertia or roll-over switches in place of the oil pressure switch. I have yet to see someone post part numbers for the switches they used.
For more info on pumps see the old thread linked below.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?100543-Airtex-vs-Facet-fuel-pump