Wedge TR7 DHC fans, advice on value/feasability of 1980?

[bmurphy7369]

I stumbled onto a two owner 1980 Aqua/ Blue Vinyl/ Check, 130K highway miles mainly TR7 Roadster. The car is completely original, the left rear quarter is smashed above the arch (bolt-on or weld for a new fender?).. The paint is fading a bit, but for a garaged car, it has numerous rust pimples on the surface of the exterior. I haven't really ever seen this pattern and don't know if it should be a major concern or not. I am guessing that the car can be had for $500, at least that would be my offer. It runs well, but has been driven rarely in the past several years, so I am sure there'll be some issues with corroded wiring, dried rubber bushings, etc...

Am I on track for a good project, or just going on an impulse? It seems like a fresh paint job would cure the "pimples" and I am sure I can live with the fender or maybe find a cheap way to make it presentable. Any opinions would be helpful, I was around 10 or 11 when I began lusting after the Wedge, but have never sought one out or for that matter driven one. It is unmolested, which is a plus, but the high mileage would rule out going full-tilt on a restoration. Just wanted it for a fun summer roadster.

The engine? I learned the engine was made by SAAB, and possibly another company or two? If anyone would fill me in on that shocker, I would be happy to learn how that odd match-up came about. Thanks in advance for any hints/warnings/positive aspects you may share on the TR7's. I almost ran when I saw the water-choke 175CD Strombergs! These beauties are what have set me back about $3000, 3 fires, and 3 years on finishing the '75 XJ6 Coupe! But I'm brave and will keep an extinguisher handy from now on......

Thanks to all, hope to be in "Triumph" more often, even if this isn't the right car at this time...

Brian

 

[Guest]

You read these, right?

https://www.austin-rover.co.uk/index.htm?tr7storyf.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triumph_TR7

 

[Mickey Richaud]

The engine? I learned the engine was made by SAAB, and possibly another company or two?
Brian

Other way 'round:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triumph_Slant-4_engine

If you're looking for a comfortable driver, the Wedges are hard to beat. They, like all LBC's, have their share of quirks, but then that's what all the charm is about. :wink:

Count on unplugging all wiring connectors, cleaning the corrosion, applying dielectric grease, and hooking back up. Rust areas to look for are under the brake and clutch cylinders, shock towers, the rear link mounting points on the floor behind the seats, and the point where the rear fenders attach at the top, alongside the trunk lid.

Let us know...

Mickey

 

[tdskip]

TR7 Sheet metal is readily available and cheap....

 

[tr8todd]

Sheet metal might be easy to find in Southern Cali, but not in the parts of the country where salt is used on the roads. Try finding a good set of convertible doors in New England. Around here, there is no such thing as a parts car with a clean body. I had to go all the way to Atlanta last Summer to find a clean white convertible body shell for the TR8 rebody I am working on now. A decent paint job with some body work costs more than a decent TR7 is worth.

 

[bmurphy7369]

Alana, Mickey, Skip, and Todd,
Thanks for the encouragement, think I'll go drive it today. Did I understand that the rear fenders on the roadsters are bolt-on, or just prone to rust at a weld-line. That would be a huge labor difference to replace a part of the unit-body if it were welded rather than bolt-on of course.. Either way, it's a pretty bad dent and someday I would correct it since the rest of the car is so straight, maybe when values start to rise, which I keep getting the feeling is about to happen. Don't know why, most experts say they never will.... I highly doubt that though. Thanks for the tips and I'll report on the test drive if I can reach the owner and arrange it.

Brian

 

[tr8todd]

The fenders are welded onto the unibody. The only bolts will be at the very top where the fender bolts and welds to the gas filler panel. The rear fenders are the toughest panels to replace on the car. Also note that the rear fenders are different for coupes and convertibles. There will be spot welds all along the front at the door pillar, blind spot welds along the rockers, and welds all along the back where the tail light panel attaches. There are also a series of spot welds inside the unibody and along the inner fender connection. Probably around 60 spots total. Figure on at least 5 hours of metal work to replace with a good used panel.

 

[DanNagy]

Personally, i think these cars are a great value. I have one and hoped to restore it as my project car. It is still sitting in my garage.