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Wedge TR7 Buying advice--what to look out for.
- Thread starter Starbuck
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If your budget allows, consider a TR8. Look for rust where the lower rear control arms attach to the unibody. There is a low spot in the interior floor, and water settles in this spot and seeps under the seem sealer and works it's magic. Look for rust under the brake and clutch master cylinders. Check for front end shake at 45 to 55 mph. That is an indication of worn front end components. Check the shifter mechanism and see if it moves up and down. Speed shift second and listen for crunching in the gear box. On a straight road, get on and off the gas and see if the car lurches left and right.-worn rear bushings. Listen for rumbles in the rear end. Check for leaks in the heater control valve. It will drip on your right foot if it's leaking. Engine driven fan clutch often will make some noise. Look for coolant leaking from the weep hole under the pump cover in the engine. It is the aluminum upside down frying pan looking thing under the front carb. The weep hole is in the block under it. I can go on for hours, but did I mention you should consider buying a TR8? Best of luck and let me know what you need for parts.
thomas371948
Freshman Member
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I I AM TJKJ, I HAVE A LEAKING HEATER THAT DRIPS ON MY FOOT. HOW DO I FIX IT, AND THE HEATER DOES NOT GET VERY WARM. IS IT PLUGED UP OR IS IT A CONTROL PROBLEM. NEED YOUR WISDOM ON THESE PROBLEMS. IS HEATER HARD TO PULL OUT. TJKJ AT tjkj@frontiernet.net
T
TRDejaVu
Guest
Guest
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Definitely +1 on the TR8.tr8todd said:
Marvin Gruber
Yoda
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If you must do a wedge, do the TR8, more fun and less headaches. The aluminum engines are not the best.
Marv
Marv
Hi Starbuck - I'd encourage you to drive one if you haven't already. Very different from other TRs and MGs. It's bigger, comfortable, great on the highway, and can be made to handle quite well. A sorted one can feel very modern and can run at 80+ MPH all day. Not very vintage feeling, but frankly a more usable car than a lot of what we drive. (disclosure - I have a boat load of MG and TRs, including a TR8 so I both have experience in the difference and am biased).
TR8 are neat, but are also more money. TR7 survival rates seem pretty good, and for $3k or so you can get a perfectly usable driver that will last a long-long time.
Personally I wouldn't be afraid of the engine at this point, most of the surviving ones are fine and parts/labor are only slightly more (if any) expensive than MGB bits.
Do take lots of pictures and post them here if you can.
TR8 are neat, but are also more money. TR7 survival rates seem pretty good, and for $3k or so you can get a perfectly usable driver that will last a long-long time.
Personally I wouldn't be afraid of the engine at this point, most of the surviving ones are fine and parts/labor are only slightly more (if any) expensive than MGB bits.
Do take lots of pictures and post them here if you can.
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
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As mentioned one place to make sure to check is where the unibody and the trailing arms attach, another place to check is under the spare tire in the back of the trunk, that's another spot that could catch water and rust out. There are some other checks if you are getting a FHC instead of DHC but since you said you are looking at a DHC those should be the major rust spots.
One thing you'll notice driving them though is the gas pedal is almost uncomfortably close to the transmission tunnel. You get used to it, but if yo've got big feet it can be akward.
Myself, I like the FHC TR7s better from a style stand point, and even though there were more FHC TR7s made, there seem to be FAR fewer left in any decent condition than the DHC models.
One thing you'll notice driving them though is the gas pedal is almost uncomfortably close to the transmission tunnel. You get used to it, but if yo've got big feet it can be akward.
Myself, I like the FHC TR7s better from a style stand point, and even though there were more FHC TR7s made, there seem to be FAR fewer left in any decent condition than the DHC models.
GBRandy
Jedi Knight
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First thing to look for is a TR8 instead 
I owned both. While the TR7 is a nice car, the TR8 is nicer. It rides smoother, has a more reliable engine and a little more power. Sorry if I offend....
Having said that. I would be looking at any body joint for rust. Check the strut towers and , as mentioned, the rear swing arms fro rust or any bending. If any steel is pulled or rusted away in the rear attach points of the shocks, or swing arms, run away.
Try and stay with a 1980 if you can. The tranny is a newer five speed design and we can pretend that BL actually incorporated some fixes in along the production path :wink:
If the tranny is making noise all the time be wary as they are kinda pricy to fix. If it is just hard to shift or grinds slightly into gear, it may just be fluid related. The GM ATF has fixed a lot of five speed ills.
Check the head gasket area very closely. The TR7 heads warped if not properly cared for. If it is overheating, check for head gasket issues first....most likely there is an issue there.
If you own an MG you already know about LUCAS so I'll save the detail on that except for one. There is a very good replacement plan for the alternators on these cars. So if the alternator is acting up on the car you are looking at....smile and work down the price. For $100 or so you can install a new Delco unit that works way better than stock and looks pretty close to original.
Good luck!
I owned both. While the TR7 is a nice car, the TR8 is nicer. It rides smoother, has a more reliable engine and a little more power. Sorry if I offend....Having said that. I would be looking at any body joint for rust. Check the strut towers and , as mentioned, the rear swing arms fro rust or any bending. If any steel is pulled or rusted away in the rear attach points of the shocks, or swing arms, run away.
Try and stay with a 1980 if you can. The tranny is a newer five speed design and we can pretend that BL actually incorporated some fixes in along the production path :wink:
If the tranny is making noise all the time be wary as they are kinda pricy to fix. If it is just hard to shift or grinds slightly into gear, it may just be fluid related. The GM ATF has fixed a lot of five speed ills.
Check the head gasket area very closely. The TR7 heads warped if not properly cared for. If it is overheating, check for head gasket issues first....most likely there is an issue there.
If you own an MG you already know about LUCAS so I'll save the detail on that except for one. There is a very good replacement plan for the alternators on these cars. So if the alternator is acting up on the car you are looking at....smile and work down the price. For $100 or so you can install a new Delco unit that works way better than stock and looks pretty close to original.
Good luck!
BRSLimited
Jedi Trainee
Offline
IMO, watch out for where it says 7 after the TR. Having driven both a TR7 and 8 definatly go find a TR8. It will be worth more, more reliable, more power. Much more fun car to drive but that is just my opinion.
jclay
Senior Member
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