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Wedge TR7 Brakes Permafade

MichaelF

Senior Member
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I have two wedges: a '76 coupe and '81 PI DHC.

Both now have new master cylinders, new rotors, pads and rebuilt calipers within the last year. Identical parts. Rear brakes look fine on inspection on both.

The '76 brakes are just fine for the era. Not great but exactly as I expect them to be.

The '81 is just plain poor. Loaded truck-like. What troubles me is what I'll call 'permafade'. It takes noticeably more pressure to get braking underway and there is not a linear increase in braking power with greater pedal pressure. It's the same kind of feeling that happens when you have mild brake fade -- except it's all the time.

I can definitely heat up the front brakes on hills with hard braking, smell them, and induce genuine brake fade.

Would you say the difference is the product of the extra few hundred lbs of the '81 ? Have others noticed the same difference between early and late models?

Next -- I'm considering dropping some semi-metallic pads from the Roadster Factory into the 81 and seeing if that helps. Has anyone experience with these in comparison to the stock items?

Are there some other areas to look at? How can you tell if the booster is busted? The proportioning valve?

I think I'll turn the 81 rear drums and replace the cylinders as a matter of course. I rather like a stock car so bolting on a big brake kit isn't that attractive to me.

I just can't belive that in the final year of the wedge that brakes were that wimpy! So I'm open to wisdom.
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr> Next -- I'm considering dropping some semi-metallic pads from the Roadster Factory into the 81 and seeing if that helps. Has anyone experience with these in comparison to the stock items?

<hr></blockquote>

I put a pair of Vicky Brits' on my 80, and it does seem to help a little. Just plan on getting the "squeal shims" and some brake silicone, as without them, mine squealed REAL bad.

I don't seem to have a fade problem with mine. One though I had...have you checked all the hoses, and made sure that they aren't swelled? If so, then as you press on the pedal, some of the pressure is spent pushing out the hose, and not working the calipers/cylinders. Also, unless you really have to, I'd avoid turning the drums. My "mentor" was a little upset when I turned mine unnecessarily.
 
Micheal,

Just a hunch but I'd say it would be worth checking out your diaphram in your booster. My guess is that you have a hole in it somewhere.

Cheers,
thirsty.gif
driving.gif

Walter
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by waltesefalcon:
Micheal,

Just a hunch but I'd say it would be worth checking out your diaphram in your booster. My guess is that you have a hole in it somewhere.

Cheers,
thirsty.gif
driving.gif

Walter
<hr></blockquote>

iagree.gif

Definatly sounds like a brake booster problem.

I plan on getting an upraged brake booster and master cylinder from S&S peparations for mine, but I'm also upgrading the front and rear brakes.
 
Thanks. Hoses are new front and back so I eliminated that one.

>>upgraded brake booster

Hmmm. What does it offer over stock? Also I don't see repair kits available anywhere for the regular booster unit. Anyone know where they are available ? Are there rebuilt units?

[ 02-28-2004: Message edited by: MichaelF ]</p>
 
Yo
I have had trouble on out DHC & fixed it by
Replacing the master cylinder & booster with a unit of a Rover Sd 3500 & it all fitted staight on,the only change was the brake pipes to the splitter.
the front discs & rotors I replaced with ones from a ford capri mk2 & had an adaptor plate made to give the correct spacings.The ford doscs were thiaker & the rotors had bigger pads.
The result!!
It STOPS REAL GOOD
Have a good one
Tony A
 
Yo
I have had trouble on out DHC & fixed it by
Replacing the master cylinder & booster with a unit of a Rover Sd 3500 & it all fitted staight on,the only change was the brake pipes to the splitter.
the front discs & rotors I replaced with ones from a ford capri mk2 & had an adaptor plate made to give the correct spacings.The ford doscs were thiaker & the rotors had bigger pads.
The result!!
It STOPS REAL GOOD
Have a good one
Tony A
 
I am not an expert on TR7s but seem to recall the later cars have 9 inch as compared with 8 inch rear drums.
Michael, is it possible there is a difference in rear wheel cylinders to compensate for this; perhaps you used the same parts there too.

As a test go to an empty parking lot (on a Sunday?) and slam the brakes to see if they are balanced front to back, front should lock slightly before rear as this gives better stability. Check the adjusters in rear drums have not got stuck. Good Luck!
Simon.
 
I've used the semi-metallic pads before and I have to agree they were a slight improvement over stock pads. But in braking a slight improvement of inches may be the difference between castrophe and....?
hammer.gif
 
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