Wedge TR7 brake fluid leak--bonus: fuel leak, too!

[MCNX_BFF]

This is not the way I imagined my car leaving the tire shop. (Sigh) :frown:
I dropped off the 7 to get the tires installed and mentioned to them to please check the brakes as the pedal was extremely soft and obviously not right. I had noticed this a few nights back and topped off the brake fluid level hoping that would be that. In any case, I received a phone call from the tire shop informing me that there was a brake fluid leak--actually a "gush" at the rear of the car each time the pedal was engaged(explains why the level was soo low). I have no idea how long the car had this leak before having symptoms from it as there were never any tell-tale puddles in my garage. Then, it got worse... Apparently, the brake fluid gush soaked and ate away at the fuel line leaving the 7 with a steady, significant drip of gasoline. The tire shop owner advised me not to drive it home--think Molotov Cocktail :shocked: . So, I called a tow and shipped it off to British Steel for my mechanic to figure out. I have been assured/chastised by Wedgehead pals that this is a quick/easy fix. I suppose I should have focused and paid attention in auto shop class! Hmmm. If they ever come out with a yellow-covered Triumph TR7's for Dummies, I will be first in line to get it!
Thanks for giving me time to "show and tell". Kindergarten teachers love that!--Monica
Geez! I'm hoping this is not a harbinger of what summer has in store for my 7 and I!

 

[philman]

ouch, sorry to see those photos. I guess now is the time to upgrade the flexible lines to braided stainless steel while you are doing brake repairs.

 

[DNK]

Monica- While he's at it. Split the rear brake lines and run a separate line to both.
The factory only has 1 bleed screw back there.

 

[tdskip]

Better to find out this way than...

This is easy to fix.

 

[philman]

Now would also be a good time to get your proportioning valve modified by Ted Schumacher, I did that for my wedge now the rear brakes actually have an effect. You could also consider replacing your wheel cylinders with the wheel cylinders from a TR8 rear axle. I love all these ideas people come up with that cost money when all you can think about is getting your car back on the road.

 

[DNK]

That's what we do best Phil

 

[MCNX_BFF]

I love all these ideas people come up with that cost money when all you can think about is getting your car back on the road.

Gotta love the ideas/mods that make the 7 better/safer! Goodbye flexible hoses, hello braided stainelss-- Check. That is exactly what I mentioned to my husband on Friday. He nodded and pretended to care.

Don, splitting the line. I so don't get it. Please explain why I should get this done. To get a 2nd bleed screw there back there? Does it affect braking performance or is it for ease of repair later? My apologies for my lack of mechanical understanding :blush: , your patience is appreciated.

Phil, the Proportioning valve from TSI Automotive runs under $50 w/an exchange. Is getting it installed a horrific job (read: $$$$)? You've really noticed a difference in your brakes since getting that done enough to recommend it, huh? I think it sounds like something worth getting done and will run it by my mechanic.

Wheel cylinders from an 8?! Aaaaaagh!! No more, no more!! Give me a chance to get this car back out on the road. (And a little time for the cost of the paintjob/tires to fade a bit from my husband's memory) Let's face it...7's aren't known for their muscle under the bonnet :smirk: , I'd like to think the brakes will do the job--for now. Thanks guys! I value your knowledge and experience. --Monica

Tom, you are right. I am grateful to have found out this way. The alternative would have been--waaaaaay worse.

 

[philman]

The proportioning valve made a nice difference for autocrossing with my wedge. Installation is only about 1/2 hour plus bleeding the system. You would probably have to ship your unit to TSI for them to modify unless they have one on the shelf. It modifies the front/rear bias to give you more rear braking. I suggested it because you were going to have to bleed the brakes anyway.

 

[DNK]

Monica- The rear brake line comes from the front ober to the passenger rear drum and then to the drivers side where it it ends and you bleed it from there. A lot of connections to trap air. If you split it from the rear axle to each wheel cy. you can then bleed each separately.
It's to real expensive to do but it can wait for another time too if money is tight.

 

[mgb4tim]

Why would you want to split the rear lines?

I like only pulling one wheel to bleed and flush both.