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Wedge TR7 Alternator

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S

strace

Freshman Member
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I have a 1980 TR7 DHC one that I drive daily, well until the 'magic smoke' came from the alternator. Looking at a replacment I found that the TR7 with AC had a different, much more expensive alternator than the non-ac versions.

My question is this, since the AC on my 7 has been removed from the vehicle what would be required to use the smaller, cheaper alternator for non-AC vehicles?

I do know that the cooling fan is larger on the AC version and that the pulley on the non-AC seems to be larger. Could these parts be intercharged and work properly?

Thanks for your advice.
 
When I first got my car last year, the alternator was shot. I swallowed hard when I saw how much the ACR25 ones were (for the A/C equipped TR7s), not to mention the relative rarity of them. However, I was able to find a local starter/alternator shop that was able to rebuild it for about 1/2 the cost of one already rebuilt (not to mention core charges/shipping). They were able to fix in in a day without ordering parts, which sort of tells me that the internal guts to the thing are not too rare. I'd suggest you check around and see if this is an option for you. Personally, I wouldn't want to put on one that had less output than what I have right now, regardless of whether I use the A/C, which is most likely the case with the less expensive alternator.
 
The big difference is the ACR20 (or 25)puts out more amps than the ACR17. The mounting is the same, they use the same brackets. I can't say for certain, but I'm pretty sure the connectors are different. The A/C models have a locking connector with a larger center wire for the power output. Have you tried autozone, carquest, and places like that? Your other alternative is to try a junkyard, buy a used one and have it tested at an autoparts store (I know AutoZone does it for free).

Also, when you say smoke, do you mean that the alternator seized, or something burned up inside?

The pulleys are different, the A/C model has a plate behind the pulley to change the airflow (or keep fingers from being removed).
 
I have never bought a new starter or alt. Always have them rebuilt unless you drop it and break the case or it totaly catches on fire. The rebuild for both at my local shop runs about $30 each. Rebuilds usually consists of a good cleaning, new bearings and new brushes and carry a 3,6, or 12 mo warranty. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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