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Here's the story in brief (I hope). My TR6 pretty new battery started going dead. I would recharge it and two weeks later it was dead. I discovered the back casing of the alternator was melted into the alternator internal parts. I thought it was the ignition wire from the front cylinder, I wasn't sure. I got a new alternator from TRF and installed it. I recharged the battery. The car would not start, it would turn over but not start. I tested for a spark to the plugs but found none. I took off the distributor cap and discovered that the previous owner had installed a Pertronix Ignitor, so I checked it for a spark, none. I installed a new coil, ignition wires, rotor button, spark plugs (hey I might as well) new everything in the ignition system except a new pertronix ignitor ($89). Still the car won't start. The battery holds a strong charge and the engine turns over and over again, no spark to the ignition wires. Anyone have any ideas? I could sure use some help. Thanks.
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TR6 TR6 Won't Start
- Thread starter dmen
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I feel for you. One very basic thing you might double check is the spark plug wire order. The previous owner of my TR6 had it mixed up, and when I changed the wires, I simply copied the order. The car wouldn't start, until I properly arranged the wires, then it ran like a top.
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
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Check your power to the Petronix box or the fuse that carries it. Hope it's that simple. Wayne
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
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I agree with Roman. Never, never trust an electronic ignition from a PO. These things can go bad in a heartbeat. Go back to points and condensor. Chances are you will stay there. The electronic ignition can and will go "bad" if the ignition is left in the "run" position without the engine running, for anything over a few minutes. I have lost several like that and now happily run stock ignition.
Bill
Bill
Bill Redd
Jedi Hopeful
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I had an MGB a few years back that I bought from the prior owner in "non-running" condition. After making all the changes that you've described, it still would not run.
I finally located a broken wire under the new rotor that I had put in the distributor.
That success is probably what got me sucked into this hobby!
I finally located a broken wire under the new rotor that I had put in the distributor.
That success is probably what got me sucked into this hobby!
dklawson
Yoda
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The ground wire inside the distributor that Bill mentioned is very important. Without it there is no ground connection to power the Pertronix nor is there a path to pass current through the coil. The wire's a good thing to check.
However, I'd start with the advice given by Trrdster2000 to check for 12v power TO the Pertronix. This is the Pertronix's "red" wire connection on negative ground cars. You said that the back of the old alternator melted. There's a good chance that when it died it took out part of the "white wire" circuitry coming from the ignition switch. In Lucas wiring systems those white wires power the ignition warning light, the coil, and an electric fuel pump (if fitted). The most common connection point for the Pertronix 12v feed is to connect the red wire to coil (+). If you've lost continuity in the wires coming from the ignition switch neither the Pertronix nor the coil will have power.
TR6BILL is right that you must limit the non-running on-time of the Pertronix to no more than a couple of minutes. If you leave the ignition on without the engine running the Pertronix module will overheat. It's a costly mistake to make.
However, I'd start with the advice given by Trrdster2000 to check for 12v power TO the Pertronix. This is the Pertronix's "red" wire connection on negative ground cars. You said that the back of the old alternator melted. There's a good chance that when it died it took out part of the "white wire" circuitry coming from the ignition switch. In Lucas wiring systems those white wires power the ignition warning light, the coil, and an electric fuel pump (if fitted). The most common connection point for the Pertronix 12v feed is to connect the red wire to coil (+). If you've lost continuity in the wires coming from the ignition switch neither the Pertronix nor the coil will have power.
TR6BILL is right that you must limit the non-running on-time of the Pertronix to no more than a couple of minutes. If you leave the ignition on without the engine running the Pertronix module will overheat. It's a costly mistake to make.