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rebuilding my motor----what and where is the best lifter for the tr6? I thought either Crane or Isky had some but not any more---Kent seems no longer available, I called the Roadster Factory (backorder factory) and they said they have been handling a new brand and didnt even know the name or where they were made. I have a new set from British parts Northwest but they are unmarked and look cheap, so where do I go??? thanks, Allan
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TR6 tr6 valve lifters--which ones???
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vettedog72
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Allan:
Call BPNW and ask who made them and if he has received any feed back. You know, when you look for the TR6 parts, its funny how expensive and rare the parts can be compared to chevy parts. I bought several parts from BPNW with a skeptical eye. I was suspect of the higher price rod and main bearings but the machine shop had nothing negative to say about them. Pistons passed muster as well. If a guy is selling a pile of junk I just don't see how he can stay in biz with communication like this web page and many others like it. I did not buy any lifters so I cannot judge them except on the reputation of BPNW. If they don't feel right, take them to some body that can make an evaluation and good luck.
Call BPNW and ask who made them and if he has received any feed back. You know, when you look for the TR6 parts, its funny how expensive and rare the parts can be compared to chevy parts. I bought several parts from BPNW with a skeptical eye. I was suspect of the higher price rod and main bearings but the machine shop had nothing negative to say about them. Pistons passed muster as well. If a guy is selling a pile of junk I just don't see how he can stay in biz with communication like this web page and many others like it. I did not buy any lifters so I cannot judge them except on the reputation of BPNW. If they don't feel right, take them to some body that can make an evaluation and good luck.
G
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I got my new set of tappets from Richard Good at GoodParts.
Nice quality products all around.
Bill
Nice quality products all around.
Bill
Alan_Myers
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Hi,
You might also chat with Ken Gillanders at British Frame & Engine. He carries some TR6 parts, although his real forte is the 4-cylinder TRs he's been building and racing for 50+ years.
For the 4-cylinder, there is a relatively recent development using GT-40 lifters with a sleeve. This is said to be the most durable lifter yet offered for the old four pot TRactor motor. I've got a set of lightened & phosphated cam followers for my car, but am considering instead using the GT-40 items, based on Ken's recommendations and explanations. He's a machinist and metalurgist, too.
I don't know that it's the same with the 6-cylinder, but the trick with the four pot is to get a strong enough lifter that won't shave the lobes off the cam pretty quickly, especially if using stronger than stock valve springs (which aren't really necessary, but are still sold to a lot of "tuners").
I bet Ken would have some suggestions for you. His website is https://www.britishframeandengine.com/ but it has only a brief, partial list of parts he has available or can get.
You might also chat with Ken Gillanders at British Frame & Engine. He carries some TR6 parts, although his real forte is the 4-cylinder TRs he's been building and racing for 50+ years.
For the 4-cylinder, there is a relatively recent development using GT-40 lifters with a sleeve. This is said to be the most durable lifter yet offered for the old four pot TRactor motor. I've got a set of lightened & phosphated cam followers for my car, but am considering instead using the GT-40 items, based on Ken's recommendations and explanations. He's a machinist and metalurgist, too.
I don't know that it's the same with the 6-cylinder, but the trick with the four pot is to get a strong enough lifter that won't shave the lobes off the cam pretty quickly, especially if using stronger than stock valve springs (which aren't really necessary, but are still sold to a lot of "tuners").
I bet Ken would have some suggestions for you. His website is https://www.britishframeandengine.com/ but it has only a brief, partial list of parts he has available or can get.
trboost
Jedi Trainee
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Allan,
When I replaced my cam I sent out my lifters to the cam manufacturer to test the lifters for hardness & dress them for the new cam. There was a batch of questionable quality lifters being distributed a while ago which I think made everyone a bit leery.
Camshaft failures are caused by many things including poor break-in, high spring pressure,& impropper valve clearance (to tight). I also have a fear of reground or welded cam lobes. The price of a brand new camshft isn't all that much more. Because it's such a PIA to change , I spent my time and money well in this area.
When I replaced my cam I sent out my lifters to the cam manufacturer to test the lifters for hardness & dress them for the new cam. There was a batch of questionable quality lifters being distributed a while ago which I think made everyone a bit leery.
Camshaft failures are caused by many things including poor break-in, high spring pressure,& impropper valve clearance (to tight). I also have a fear of reground or welded cam lobes. The price of a brand new camshft isn't all that much more. Because it's such a PIA to change , I spent my time and money well in this area.
michalotti_tr
Jedi Knight
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You might want to talk to the people at PRI - they custom make lifters for the Spit and GT6/TR6 out of case-hardened bar stock, which they claim is much better than the average lifter. NFI and I haven't tried them myself (I still have a 4-cyl at this point) but it looks promising.
www.prirace.com
www.prirace.com
michalotti_tr
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Rick O.
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[ QUOTE ]
So how do you like them?
[/ QUOTE ]I'm only about 12K miles post-install and have no issues with the top end. Previous lifters mushroomed and wiped a couple lobes off the cam. Current valve lift noted during adjustment does not indicate any lifter problem.
I think APT offers a set of nitrided lifters which should be just as good.
So how do you like them?
[/ QUOTE ]I'm only about 12K miles post-install and have no issues with the top end. Previous lifters mushroomed and wiped a couple lobes off the cam. Current valve lift noted during adjustment does not indicate any lifter problem.
I think APT offers a set of nitrided lifters which should be just as good.
Apt shows that their nitrided and kent lifters are no longer available, but I did overlook BPNW has a heavy duty lifter that has been tuftrided (I have their standard ones which Im not going to use)they are listed in the high performance section. $85-- so for a lack of any others that stand out Im going with theese. Thanks for the Help, Allan
Rick O.
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[ QUOTE ]
Apt shows that their nitrided and kent lifters are no longer available, but I did overlook BPNW has a heavy duty lifter that has been tuftrided
[/ QUOTE ]Not a good sign when basic components like lifters are "NLA" by a vendor. You'll do fine with BPNW's (ask them about future supplies--just curious). Tuftrided I believe is the same as nitrided, just sounds better to the average Joe. I have a Tuftrided rocker shaft from TRF.
Apt shows that their nitrided and kent lifters are no longer available, but I did overlook BPNW has a heavy duty lifter that has been tuftrided
[/ QUOTE ]Not a good sign when basic components like lifters are "NLA" by a vendor. You'll do fine with BPNW's (ask them about future supplies--just curious). Tuftrided I believe is the same as nitrided, just sounds better to the average Joe. I have a Tuftrided rocker shaft from TRF.
I've been reading this thread with interest as I just went through a complete engine rebuild a few months ago and have about a thousand miles on the engine. I used Richard Good's GP-2 cam with uprated valve springs, 9.5:1 compression shaved head, tubular pushrods,etc. and I'm wondering about the lifters I had put into the engine. They were ones supplied by TRF and were never tested for hardness. At present, I have no reason to swap them out; everything seems to be fine. But if something did go horribly wrong, it would probably do so without warning. With the quality of parts being what they are these days, and my own seemingly endless capacity for worrying, I'm wondering if I should take the time this winter to check out their condition and replace them if necessary. If I were to replace them with ones from BNPW would they be a direct swap or would I need to make some adjustment in the length of the pushrods. I'm thinking any variation in the lifter could be adjusted in the valve train. Is this right?
Rick O.
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[ QUOTE ]
I'm wondering if I should take the time this winter to check out their condition and replace them if necessary. If I were to replace them with ones from BNPW would they be a direct swap or would I need to make some adjustment in the length of the pushrods. I'm thinking any variation in the lifter could be adjusted in the valve train. Is this right?
[/ QUOTE ]AFAIK, lifters do not come in different sizes, so the BPNW ones would be an uneventful drop-in. Any slight variation in bucket thickness would be accommodated as you said (via valve adjustment). But before you go to the trouble of R&Ring the head to get at them, check your valve motion when adjusting your valves. I realized I had wiped lobes beneath the #11 & #12 valves when, during a routine valve adjustment, I noticed the rocker motion (lift) for these valves was greatly reduced-- even with zero lash! The cam was providing essentially zero lift to those valves because their lifters had eroded the lobes. Give that a try.
I'm wondering if I should take the time this winter to check out their condition and replace them if necessary. If I were to replace them with ones from BNPW would they be a direct swap or would I need to make some adjustment in the length of the pushrods. I'm thinking any variation in the lifter could be adjusted in the valve train. Is this right?
[/ QUOTE ]AFAIK, lifters do not come in different sizes, so the BPNW ones would be an uneventful drop-in. Any slight variation in bucket thickness would be accommodated as you said (via valve adjustment). But before you go to the trouble of R&Ring the head to get at them, check your valve motion when adjusting your valves. I realized I had wiped lobes beneath the #11 & #12 valves when, during a routine valve adjustment, I noticed the rocker motion (lift) for these valves was greatly reduced-- even with zero lash! The cam was providing essentially zero lift to those valves because their lifters had eroded the lobes. Give that a try.
G
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Dave, I am in the process of rebuilding my engine with essentially the same setup you have - 9.5 c.r., GP2 cam, tubular push rods. Did you use stock length pushrods? Richard Good supplied me with some very thin (.o35) spacers to install beneath my valve train towers to compensate for the head shave. Curious, can you use stock length pushrods?
Bill
Bill
Rick O.
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[ QUOTE ]
9.5 c.r., GP2 cam, tubular push rods. Did you use stock length pushrods? Richard Good supplied me with some very thin (.o35) spacers to install beneath my valve train towers to compensate for the head shave. Curious, can you use stock length pushrods?
[/ QUOTE ]If you shaved the head the 0.120 inches or so it would take to get up to 9.5:1 CR, the stock pushrods would not fit beneath the rockers even with the lash adjusted complety out. When you ordered your tubular pushrods, you should have specified they be shortened by the same amount you shaved your head. Using the rocker pedestal shims works but doesn't correct the rocker swing geometry that is altered by using stock length pushrods.
9.5 c.r., GP2 cam, tubular push rods. Did you use stock length pushrods? Richard Good supplied me with some very thin (.o35) spacers to install beneath my valve train towers to compensate for the head shave. Curious, can you use stock length pushrods?
[/ QUOTE ]If you shaved the head the 0.120 inches or so it would take to get up to 9.5:1 CR, the stock pushrods would not fit beneath the rockers even with the lash adjusted complety out. When you ordered your tubular pushrods, you should have specified they be shortened by the same amount you shaved your head. Using the rocker pedestal shims works but doesn't correct the rocker swing geometry that is altered by using stock length pushrods.
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Thanks Dave,
Therein lies my problem. The machine shop (in New York) said there is a fairly complex geometry to figure out how much to cut down the rods. And my head (now in Louisiana) ain't gonna make that trip back. I have been told that there is more to it than getting a rod that is the same exact length shorter than the amount I shaved my head. Does it ever end. I will make my 60th brithday before I get to drive my new, improved TR6. Might need a handicap sticker to park at this rate....
So, get a rod shorter by .120 or use the shims that are only .035 and will the geometry indeed be screwed up. Then, who can take the chrome-moly rods apart, chop them, then put them back together. My machinest says no. Oy Vey!
Bill
Therein lies my problem. The machine shop (in New York) said there is a fairly complex geometry to figure out how much to cut down the rods. And my head (now in Louisiana) ain't gonna make that trip back. I have been told that there is more to it than getting a rod that is the same exact length shorter than the amount I shaved my head. Does it ever end. I will make my 60th brithday before I get to drive my new, improved TR6. Might need a handicap sticker to park at this rate....
So, get a rod shorter by .120 or use the shims that are only .035 and will the geometry indeed be screwed up. Then, who can take the chrome-moly rods apart, chop them, then put them back together. My machinest says no. Oy Vey!
Bill
Just received the BPNW performance lifters, they are coated with a black powdery substance(i guess this is part of the tufride process) and they were loosely packed in a plastic bag but in good shape. I was plesantly suprised that they come with the oil drain hole in the lower side of the lifter to let oil drain out of the lifter and help lubricate the camshaft, this is what PRI has on their performance lifter.
Rick O.
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[ QUOTE ]
The machine shop (in New York) said there is a fairly complex geometry to figure out how much to cut down the rods. I have been told that there is more to it than getting a rod that is the same exact length shorter than the amount I shaved my head. So, get a rod shorter by .120 or use the shims that are only .035 and will the geometry indeed be screwed up.
[/ QUOTE ]Bill--Find a different machine shop if the above is indeed what they told you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif There is nothing complicated about this--shave the head 0.120, shorten the stock push rods the same amount. You certainly don't do both (shorten & shim). If I were you, I would send your tubular pushrods back to the vendor with the request they be shortened 0.120. That is the only correct way to maintain the proper rocker tip geometry.
The machine shop (in New York) said there is a fairly complex geometry to figure out how much to cut down the rods. I have been told that there is more to it than getting a rod that is the same exact length shorter than the amount I shaved my head. So, get a rod shorter by .120 or use the shims that are only .035 and will the geometry indeed be screwed up.
[/ QUOTE ]Bill--Find a different machine shop if the above is indeed what they told you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif There is nothing complicated about this--shave the head 0.120, shorten the stock push rods the same amount. You certainly don't do both (shorten & shim). If I were you, I would send your tubular pushrods back to the vendor with the request they be shortened 0.120. That is the only correct way to maintain the proper rocker tip geometry.