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TR6 TR6 transmission removal problem

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Slider748

Slider748

Senior Member
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I’m in the process of removing my OD transmission and there are two studs at the top of the bell housing that are preventing the tranny from “sliding off”. I’ve tried raising the back of the engine but it hasn’t helped. I’m worried I’ll break the studs if I wiggle the tranny too much. Any suggestions for me? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Gene
 
How about letting the motor down to get a gap on the bottom. then put something in between the motor and trans as high up the sides as you can. Then jack the motor back up and use the wedges as levers and push down on the trans to see if it will pop.
or put a prybar in the gap and try to lever them apart.
Just some thoughts
Good luck Guv'na
 
I just replaced the tranny on my TR4A, (subject of an other thread I started last weekend) and I have done the same on my TR3A 20 years ago. The studs are not that long and remember the tranny fits into the clutch a long way. I say this because the part the fits into the clutch engages before the studs reach the face of the tranny case (on the way in I noticed this because that is the point at which I had to turn the output of the tranny to "line it up"). So at least on the TR4A I don't think there is enough "play" on the whole thing to bend the studs such that they will break. I would think the you just need to keep pulling. Of course make sure you did not forget/miss any blots or nuts.

I am about to take mine out again, so if you want I can take some pictures or count the nuts/bolts for you. Just let me know.
 
What's the best way to take out the tranny to replace the clutch (TR6)? I have two jacks, 4 jack stands, and many tires to put under the car (to be on the safe side). I really need a new clutch put in and it seems to not be that hard once the tranny is off. The interior is out of the car including the trans cover, so now would be the time. Any suggestions?
 
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What's the best way to take out the tranny to replace the clutch (TR6)?

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I have just done it. and I would say the best way is out the inside of the car. Jack the front of the car up and put it on wheel stands. Remove the starter, remove the cover plate at the bottom of the tranny from under the car, remove all the bolts on the bell housing from insde the car, remove the bolts at the back of the tranny. Now all you have to do is slide the tranny back to clear the input shaft from the clutch and lift the tranny away. I would say you should get a helper for this (though 20 years ago I did it alone, but don't recomend it). The clutch comes of simply enough. Then get or make and alignment tool and put the new clutch and plate in. The install is the reverse.

The Triumph repair time schedule says the whole thing take 4.5 hours but that includes seat and tunnel removal and instalation.
 
With an Overdrive, the only way out is through the car interior. You will also have to remove the ebrake handle and I also remove my steering wheel just for more clearance, but the wheel is not necessary. If you have an engine lift, you can easily remove the trans/OD by yourself with just a couple of choke straps or strong ropes, or grab a bud and the two of you can muscle it out of the car. It is not real heavy, but awkward to grab and move.

Once you have removed the rear transmission mount, prop shaft, and bell housing bolts, you will need to raise the engine a wee bit for the transmission to clear the rear cross frame member. Once clear, it should slide off without too much trouble, however, I have heard of some release problems from the clutch spline. This may require a little more determination, but is doable with a small pry bar used below and then above the input shaft - with a gentle wiggle up & down on the unit.
Be careful of the exhaust system, that you donot overstress the manifold while moving the engine upward. I removed the exhaust support near the transmission rear for more clearance and made sure that the connection was slipping a little when I raised the engine. BTW: use a nice wide board on the oil pan when you lift the engine.

When you remove the clutch slave cylinder have a piece of wire handy to tie it up so not to stress the hydraulic piping, especially if you have the original nylon supply.

On the bell housing, there are 2 - 3/8" bolts at the ~ 5 & 7 o'clock position and all others are 5/16" (if I remember correctly) with exception of the starter bolts. There should be three threaded studs at the top of the engine block. These three studs with the two 3/8" bolts help with alignment on the re-intall. As mentioned you will need an alignment tool to center the clutch before the cover (pressure plate) can be secured. Examine the cover fingers for excessive wear and replace the unit if need be. Mine were almost worn clear through.

OMT: All of the nuts should be on the rear of the bellhousing when you re-install.


Good luck
 
Thanks for the great suggestions and advice everybody. I feel more confident for my second attempt. Hopefully I can get to it this weekend and provide an update.
 
If you install a new clutch disk BE SURE TO SLIDE IT ON THE SPLINES OF THE TRANSMISSION BEFORE YOU PUT IT TOGETHER. The clutch splines may ahave a burr or two that can play the devil with installation of the transmission. You do need a tool that simulates the transmission spline to line up the clutch in the pressure plat when putting everything back together, new disk or not.
 
I managed to remove the tranny. I basically used the brute force method and yanked it off. Thanks everybody for your advice. I guess I'll need the alignment tool when I re-install it. Is the installation harder?
 
I second that vettedog! I was helping a friend with his TR4 tranny and we had to break out the file and deburr things a little bit...not until after we had tried for a couple of hours unsuccessfully to mate the engine and tranny together. We thought we just didn't have things lined up right. Once we pulled the tranny back off and the clutch off the flywheel, we found the problem. Ugh!
 
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I guess I'll need the alignment tool when I re-install it. Is the installation harder?

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If you do not touch the clutch while the tranny is off you do not need the alignment tool. If you remove or losten the clutch, then you will need an alignment tool. I have (in a pinch) made an alignment tool out of hardwood on the wood lathe, and it worked just fine. In fact I have quite a collection of hardwood "special tools" that are for the Triumph and they all worked great.

As to "is the instalation harder?", I would say, no it is about the same as it would have been had yours not been stuck. It is a lot easier if you get a helper though. Just lign it up and slide it in. Remember to put the tranny in 4th gear so that you can rotat the output shaft to turn the input so that the splines align with those in the clutch.
 
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