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TR6 TR6 timing help

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I

ichthos

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I need some help. I own a 69 TR6. I have the two eared type distributor. There was so much play in my old distributor shaft that the rotor was wearing the inside of the cap - badly. it was always difficult to time well, and now it is obvious why. I have a spare in fairly good condition I will be using until my old one is rebuilt. I set the point gap to 0.015. I normally run the idle at about 850. I have two questions. 1)What should the timing be set at? I have some info telling me 4 after top dead center and some telling me to set it at 12 before top dead center. Which is correct? 2)Should the vacuum line be connected or disconnected? If one line is not connected, which one do I remove and do I plug this line? Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Kevin
 
The official method is to disconnect the advance line, and leave the retard line connected. If you do that, use the 4 ATDC timing value.

Most people disconnect and plug both lines, and use 12 BTDC.

The advance line goes to a fitting on top of the front carb. I think for a 69, the retard line goes to a funky valve connected to the throttle linkage. Item 55 in this clip from a Moss catalog
 
Kevin,

It would be worth your while to send one of them to Jeff at Advanced to be rebuilt.
 
Randall, what is the purpose of disconnecting the vacuum lines? In your first example of disconnecting the advance line, is this line plugged?

Based on the overwhelming suggestions from one of my earlier posts on distributor rebuilds, Paul, I do plan on getting my old distributor rebuilt by Advanced Rebuild when I get home - I just ran out of time before my cross country trip. I already contacted Jeff before I left on my trip (I am currently in MO), and he won't be able to get to it until a few weeks after I get back.

Kevin
 
For the advance line, it's just to be sure that there isn't any vacuum affecting the timing value. It normally has no vacuum at idle anyway, so it's not really required to either disconnect or plug it (but the book says to do both).

The vacuum retard was a US-mandated emission control, to supposedly provide for lower emissions at idle. Accordingly, it is only active at idle, and the 'official' instructions are to have it active and measure/set the retarded timing. If you disconnect it, the timing moves to the non-retarded value (and the idle rpm increases, which will also affect timing if you don't turn it back down).

Wow, Washington State to MO is quite a hike! Are you by any chance planning to swing by SoCA for VTR/Triumphest in a couple of months? Sounds like you would be a shoo-in for the "long distance" award!
 
Hi Kevin!

You know I'm a non-mechanic like you. I have the same
dizzy as yours and I had Jeff rebuild mine twice. He
is fantastic. His new red rotors and excellent points
will make your TR6 much more reliable than some other
products out there.

Now, I am probably wrong on this but I'm almost certain
you can obtain fairly accurate timing by using a vacuum gauge.
My car runs pretty good using this method. Those more
experienced than I am will chime in, if I've made another
rookie blunder.

It can't hurt to check it out. You cannot damage anything.

https://automotivemileposts.com/garage/v2n8.html

regards and good wishes,

Dale (Tinster)
 
Thanks, Randall. I wish I could swing by Southern CA (it would be great to meet you), but I am back in school for the rest of the summer. I had to move the rest of my youngest son's things back to Ohio - he got out of the Marines, got married, and settled in Ohio. I made a trailer, got a custom hitch made, and just took off with his stuff. I promised him a year ago when he got back from Iraq that I would do this for him - I just couldn't wait any longer. After I delivered his things we drove off for a vacation together in MO. I found that the long drive really shows what your car is made of. I have a couple of minor things to take care of before I journey home.

Kevin
 
Thanks for the article, Dale. I have to give up the internet to my wife for a while, but I'll read it as soon as I get my turn again. I haven't been home long enough to post a thank you for all the help I got from everyone in getting my car ready for this trip (I wanted to post pictures on my home computer), but I especially wanted to thank you for the articles and personal emails.

Kevin
 
Glad to help, Kevin.
I happy your suspension rebuild went smoothly
and you finally got your front brakes sorted out.
It sounds like you are making excellent progress.

Sometimes us non-mechanics get things right, in
spite of our ten thumbs. ha, ha, ha !

Keep in touch,

dale (Tinster)
 
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