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TR6 TR6 Timing cover removal

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E

erstearns

Jedi Trainee
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Finally got around to stipping the front innards off to get at the timing cover to replace the seal. Got everything off (rad, frame member, fan extension etc.) and found that the steering assembly blocks removal of the crank pully by about half the width of the pully.

I assume that I have two choices, unbold motor mounts and jack up hopefully enough to clear, or, remove steering.

I think I would opt for steering rack removal, or at least loosening to see if that gives enough room.

Any suggestions on which method would be the "easiest", leaning more toward which is likely to have the least probability of "unintended consequences"?

Also, anything else I should contemplate doing as well while noodling around in the front of the engine bay?
 
Others can comment on the removal process. Are you planning to replace the timing chain and tensioner while you're in there? Those are cheap parts while you have the cover off. I just did those on my 4, very easy.
 
Remove bolts to steering brackets and slide the rack forward.

I agree with TR4, but I would also replace the gears. A new chain/tensioner on 35 year old gears doesn't bode well with me, especially with what you have to do to get it apart.
 
Unless you have the tool to compress the stock steering mounts, or aftermarket solid mounts; I'd jack the engine up instead.

If you're going to change the chain, do the gears too. They wear together, so the old gears will cause the new chain to wear rapidly (until it's as bad as the old chain) if the overload (due to the mismatch) doesn't cause it to break.

But I just changed the tensioner and put it back together.
 
I do the rack

Unbolt the lower coupling at the lower end of the steering shaft just before it connects to the rack. Take a scribe and mark matching marks for realignment, Might be able to unbolt both mounts, leave the steering shaft coupled and angle the passengers side of the box forward enough for clearance, if the tires are off the ground.

Thought I did my last one that way.


If you do take the shaft loose and don't get the splines lined up perfectly, then loosen the flat bar at the top of the shaft before it goes into the firewall to "straighten" your steering wheel.
 
The PO "rebuilt" the engine, I will have to go back and look to see if the gear and chain "allegedly" were replaced.

I have seen some posts where there was significant discussion regarding quality of parts from many of the vendors. Much of it centered I beleive around differing hardness between chain and gear etc. I do have some concern about inferior replacment parts. To some degree an existing part, with some wear, may be better than "new" in that it has not yet failed.

I assume some descretion is necessary when speaking either postively or negatively about vendors.

Any positive recommendations? To a degree in this area I think price has some relation to quality.

Thanks for the responses. I think I will try moving the steering rack first.

Eric
 
Get the "improved" crank gear from BPNW along with their chain, tensioner and cam gear. I believe that the weak link was the crank gears.

The price is about $16 more, if I remember correctly.
 
Thanks Paul will check them out...over at the garage to pick up a few quarter horse odds and ends and could not leave without trying a few wrench turns on the steering rack.

Came off easily and was able to pivot away some from the passenger side, enough to coax the pulley off (didn't even have to loosen the steering yoke).

Next in to the timing cover..........

Thanks all for the suggestions. Even though it looks simple nice to hear from others about the expected outcome.
 
Need to figure out how to get it to look as nice as Paul's.....red with white numbers is the ticket even if it clashes with everything else!
 
I 2nd Paul's reference to BPNW...


Their passion for supplying QUALITY parts at a reasonable price and correcting any anomalies that occasionally arise(we are people dealing with people, afterall) is exceptional and to be honored.
 
Glad it worked out for your Eric. If you have the time, now is the time to get Damper Dudes to rebuild that damper.

See Thread

About $115 with shipping, if I remember correctly.
 
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