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TR6 TR6 - steering stop [lock stop] adjustment?

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SpannerMan

SpannerMan

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Hi all. I feel sure I have read in one of my TR manuals that there should be adjustability of the steering lock stops. They are the pieces that bolt into the top of the inside of the trunnion, and contact with the little ear on the bottom of the vertical link at full steering lock. What is indicated in my book is a 'cam' shaped piece that can be positioned under the bolt in such a way as to adjust how far over the steering can come. But what I have are non-adjustable stops where the bolt hole is concentric with the outer circular radius of the part; the same amount of steering motion is provided irrespective of how you position the part. I'm talking about '84' on the Moss catalog front suspension page (no p/n as they are NLA).

Has anyone ever come across such an adjustable, non-concentric steering stop on a Triumph? Why am I interested? - I hear you cry... The car has been through a few wars on the right front, and I think some of the repair work has been more in the nature of compensating to get the geometry back 'pretty close' to the way it left the factory, rather than exactly. I can turn the wheel far enough in one direction that something in the suspension interferes - I think the steering arm gets into the spring in fact. Would be interested in any related experience anyone has had!... Thanks a lot... Pete
 
Yes, I have them on my TR3, and I thought I remember seeing them when we did front end work on a club member's TR6. The OE part number from my TR3 parts book is 101407. TRF shows the part is current, but it only shows TR2-TR4. Maybe they changed the number for the TR6. You might want to scobe around the TRF site, or give them a call.

Edit: I just looked at the TRF site, and couldn't find anything for the TR6. I also looked at the Moss site, and they list the part as available for the TR2-TR4. Maybe the TR6 isn't adjustable. On my TR3, the hex head is 1/2", so that should make it a 5/16" bolt. If that's what's on your TR6, then the TR2-TR4 stop should work.
 
Hi,

Yes, I have the eccentric stops on my TR4, too. They could just as easily be replaced by a thick washer of the right diameter to do the job. So, I'd not panic about getting "the right part", instead try to figure out what's coming in contact with what, and how much additional diameter is needed on the stop, then make something. If you fabricate a part just slightly oversize, it would be pretty easy to grind or file a little off at a time to reduce the diameter to "just right". About 3/8" thick and roughly 1" in diameter would be a good "oversize" starting point, I think. A stack of thinner washers might be used, too, but I imagine would be harder to trim to size.

A 5/16" NF bolt about 1" long, with a lock washer, is all that's needed to hold the steering stop in place.
 
Thanks guys! I had thought about a stack of washers also - great minds think alike as they say... I'll check it out. The earlier model stops sound like a good thing to look into also. Pete
 
Hi,

I had a pair handy here, so measured the stops used on my TR4.

They are 5/16" thick, 3/4" diameter. The 5/16" hole is offset from center by 1/16". The bolt is standard NF 5/16" x 1" long, and is fitted with a split-type lock washer.

These look like they would be relatively easy to make, the only tricky part is that the underside of the stop has a spiraling groove cut in it, I would guess to help keep it locked in place once the bolt is tightened. You could accomplish the same thing with some sort of locking washer under the stop, I'm sure, either adjusting the thickness of the stop slightly and/or the length of the bolt a little to compensate for the added thickness of the washer, if necessary.

Depending upon your suspension setup, the above dimensions might or might not work. My TR4 front suspension is modified (for negative camber and more accurate caster) and requires slightly larger diameter stops now, to prevent the inner edge of the 15x5.5" alloy wheel from rubbing against the very outer end of the rear upper a-arm. A-arms have also been slightly modified on the ends for more clearance. This is because I'm using Revington TR's adjustable upper fulcrum, which position the a-arms about 3/4" further apart.

FYI, on TR4, there is a landing flat where the stops are installed, directly behind the trunnion. The vertical link has two "ears" that come up against the stop. I'm not sure if the later cars are identical in this respect, since they use different stops.

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Thanks again Alan - the dimensions will be a big help. I can measure the diameter of the stops that are on there now and compare. If they are the same, as I suspect they will be, the eccentric hole will help me get some more adjustment. It is the same setup as you mention - the ears on the vertical link contact the stop. I had a quick look yesterday and it looks like the vertical overlap isn't very great on the left side. I am wondering if the ear is riding up over the top (of course that is easy to check). I guess that would suggest the vertical link isn't threaded down all the way into the trunnion on that side. I am going to strip it down and have a look in the spring. The interference I have I think is the end of one of the steering arm attaching bolts contacting/wedging into a coil of the road spring at full lock. Pete
 
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