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TR6 TR6 springs

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ichthos

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Now that my car is running, I am going after other repairs(I think I am becoming obsessed.) In any case, I measured over the center of each axel to the fender and found I have exactly 5/8 inch of a drop on the drivers side. By the same method, the rear seems to drop exactly 1 1/8 inch. What is normal? How do I know if it is time to replace the springs? If they do need to be replaced, how difficult is this to do?
If I do replace the springs, is there anything else that should be replaced at the same time?
Thanks, Kevin
 
Generally, on a TR6, if the rear springs are shot, your wheels are going to show a negative camber. This will cause premature tire wear.
Rear springs are very easy to change. With the rear end on jack stands, run the floor jack up on the trailing arm to where the spring begins to compress. Don't lift it off of the stands. Disconnect the connecting link and slowly lower the car.
The front spring must be compressed before removing the spring pan. The shock must be removed and the compressor run inside the spring, up through the shock tower.
You can make your own compressor with a piece of B7 threaded rod(higher tensile strength), nuts, flat washers and a heavy gauge plate of steel or a 2x4.
 
The car should appear level from the side front to back. Many sixes suffer from rear sag due to fatigued springs. The fronts require the use of the threaded rod type spring compressor - no other method is advised for safety purposes, but it is straight forward. Consider replacing the shocks at the same time. The rears just drop out (most of the time) by lower the trailing arm slowly with a jack, after releasing the shock link. Just go slow. Small differences in height side to side can be adjusted using extra rubber pads at the bottom of the spring - this should cure your problem. As for ride height, it's usually in the read where the car droops - assuming you have the correct diameter tire, the center of the top of the wheel arch should measure just about 28 5/8" from the fender lip to the ground.

Replace all the rubber when doing the springs, and inspect front end and trailing arm bushings in the process. Unless you are racing the car, consider uprated springs all around - Roadster Factory, Moss and others have these. I doubt you'll notice a ride difference, but the car will "squat" far less on hard acceleration reducing considerably rear end camber changes which (sometimes) make for an interesting launch.

While there is considerable discussion on the use of poly vs. rubber bushings on sixes, there is really little reason not to use poly for the spring pads. The cost diff. is laughable and they will last for ever.
 
Kevin,
Yes, you are obsessed. I think you need professional help. Welcome to the club.

Whatever you do, do not take the advice of the Bentley manual and remove the front springs using a floor jack. This is downright dangerous! Use a spring compression tool as described above or buy one from Moss or TRF. Taking the springs out of the front is a snap with this device. If you are gonna do that, then you might want to closely inspect all your front bushings. If you have the spring tool, you can tell yourself that you will redo all the bushings later when you see how easy it is to take out the springs. IF you decide to redo the bushings, then this is a good time to clean up all the front suspension components and repaint everything. It's a never ending story.
Now on to the rear. The rear coil spring is simple to remove. Just undo the shock arm and the aluminum swing arm will drop down to where you can muscle the spring out. Again, trailing arm bushing needs inspection. I would recommend BPNW for springs, they have good advice and good springs. Just follow your Bentley for everything, except the front coil spring removal.


Bill


Ned and I must have posted simutaneously. I will differ with Ned on the use of poly. Went that route and went back to rubber. That's what makes the world go 'round.....
 
Thanks for the information everyone. Is there any problem with doing the rear first and then doing the front at a later time? I have not done any of this work before and I want to take it a step at a time.
Kevin
 
Hello Kevin,

" your wheels are going to show a negative camber. This will cause premature tire wear."

well not exactly, your TR6 should have negative camber, what you don't want is excessive negative camber. Check you workshop manual for the setings, and if you don't have one I recommend getting one.

Alec
 
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