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TR6 TR6 RR BODY/FRAME MOUNTS

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M

machinemd

Jedi Hopeful
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I purchased my 1974 TR6 only a few months ago. It had undergone a frame off resto a couple/few years earlier but was limited to the frame, body and interior. No mechanicals. Because of 5/16-3/8" wide upper door gaps I laid under the car for most of an hour checking frame details and it looked great. The po had jobbed the major work out and did the finish work himself. I concluded that he/they were just sloppy on a lot off finish details. So far in my short ownership the door gaps don't seem to have changed. I want to tighten them up a bit but after looking thru the many books and catalogs I have it's not real clear to me where all the rear mount point are that I must loosen and shim. Can anybody out there who has done this enlighten me?
Thanks, Steve
 
I'll try to help but I am not clear as what you want to do. Most likly you will have to move the fenders, not the doors. Bummer huh!
 
I'm don't remember where I read it, but I know that it's the rear that can be shimmed a bit to better align the door gaps. I got the impression that no disassembly was needed, just removal off the mount bolts, lift and shim. And that the available lift was limited by the rear bumper mounts. The front gaps are good as is the rear height of the doors. It also said that the rear gaps were never perfect from the factory, always a bit wider at the top. I just want to tighten them up a bit and monitor them over time.
 
Steve, it is doable, but not easy. We tried but were indeed limited by the back mounts. Basically you want to bend the whole car in the middle. Remember, nothing else will fit afterwards: top, door glass seal, etc. I just left the gaps and accepted it. This is best done with a body-off-frame resto. Unless someone out there had better luck than me.

Bill
 
Dr B is right, best left alone, When my wife gets some time I will ask if she will type for me. It can be done but it can also cause more problems, and if you chip paint, well... Reshimming the body should be your last otion. For every action there is a reaction, you want to create the visually pleasent even gaps. Where are you willing to sacrifice a less visual gap or contour without grinding or welding. For me it is the fender flare contour, 98% of the people never notice. Loosen up the bottom fender bolt and the inner splash panel bolts remove, pull fender back, put washer shims between Bpost and fender splash panel, I got a backache now, you get the idea
 
I have a couple replies from 6-Pack list members that basically indicate it is easily doable. This is the impression I have from a previous posting somewhere in the past. I'll attach them if anybody else has a similar desire.

#1 Basically you only have five bolts aft of the door posts. The two farrest in the rear are on the frame where the bumpers mount to the frame. Coming forward a bit is the spare tire hold down bolt which is also a shim mount. Still coming forward are the two bolts that are on the parcel shelf that bolt to the frame.
To close the gap at the doors you either need to lessen the shims at the parcel shelf or increase the number of shims at rear three bolts. It is a delicate balance but with a 4X4 and a floor jack you and a friend who watches the gap can do it once all the bumper bolts are loosen.

#2 If the rear upper door gaps are excessively wide you will need to shim up the rear of the body at the back of the frame also you may need to loosen the mounting points over the differential brace, behind the seats. if you have to many shims here remove some to bring the body down thereby decreasing the door gaps at the rear and top of the doors. The Bentley Manual shows where the shims are on the frame and so does TRF's Blue or Green catalogue. You pretty much have to play around with it to get it right. Don't forget that the door hinges are also adjustable, and the wings can be adjusted fore and aft if need be.
 
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