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TR6 TR6 rocker panel fit

Scot1966

Jedi Hopeful
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With the TR6 chassis back together I started working on the body this week. ( I was off from work all week ) I have new outer rocker panels that I purchased from Justin ( The start of something big ) since he changed directions with his TR6. My rockers are not totally gone, but the front part under the fenders is perforated slightly, and a couple of small holes under the doors. I saw a post a while ago, ( but can't find it now ) of how bad the form and fit of replacement TR6 rockers are. I remember the post had pictures of heating and reforming them, and all the time and work that went into getting them to fit good. Before cutting anything, I thoroughly compared the existing rockers to the new ones. Boy am I glad I did...the radius' were nowhere near as crisp, and the forms were different. I ended up just cutting off the rusted end, just in front of the A post where the drains dump, and butt welding a section of the new rocker. I have a spot or two toward the rear that I will have to splice in as well, but with the fit and finish of the new rockers, I would rather have as much of the original metal as possible to make things line up.
 
Agree with DNK, good plan. However, there are advantages and disadvantages with both options. If you patch and existing panel, it is easy to retain the original shape and fit, but the weld lines and distortion still need a lot of working and a fair mount of skill to get things right. If you weld like I do, heaven forbid, that will include a layer of filler, which I try to avoid. You also need to be sure that the rust is truly localized. On the other hand, few of the reproduction panels, like your rockers, fit right in and require as much, if not more working and skill, than the patches.
As much as I like the clean new panels, I find myself looking at patching options more carefully, certainly cheaper if you have more time than cash, less disruptive, and as you point out, preserving the original metal. (At what point does a car become like the antique 18th century ax that has had only three new heads and six handles?)
Tom
 
If you patch and existing panel, it is easy to retain the original shape and fit, but the weld lines and distortion still need a lot of working and a fair mount of skill to get things right. If you weld like I do, heaven forbid, that will include a layer of filler, which I try to avoid. You also need to be sure that the rust is truly localized.
Tom

I agree with you 100% Tom. It will require more time and metalworking to get straight in the end, but at least the body lines will be crisp. IMHO there is nothing worse than the quality and fit of today's aftermarket sheet metal. I can stomach a thin layer of filler, but not body lines that don't line up.
I am sure your welds are great....I am an aerospace welder by trade, and I am my worst critic, but butt welding sheet metal usually comes out pretty good for me. I skip around with short runs to keep the distortion down while using a chunk of copper as a heat sink behind the metal I am welding.
I will sand blast the inner rocker after all the welding is done to be sure the rust is gone, and then a couple coats of POR15 before putting the new floor in and sealing it up.

Love the ax comparison !

Scot
 
Well the driver side rocker repair is finished. I spliced in a new section in the front ( under the wing ) and in the lower back, just ahead of the rear wing. It came out pretty good. I also tackled the drivers floor today. Actually it is tacked in, it was a long day and I was getting tired. Body on and off the frame MANY times and body panels on to check the fit and gaps before final welding. Tomorrow I will finish it up. It looks much better to see a nice new floor and not a rusty perforated mess. Progress feels good !
 
How about some pictures?

My laptop is under the weather, so these days I am using an iPad. If someone can tell me how to post pictures from the iPad I will be happy to post some. I've never done it before. I tried to copy and paste but the pics are huge.
 
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