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TR6 TR6 REAR TRAILING ARMS AND BETTER HANDLING

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A

ALLAN

Jedi Warrior
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J.K.JACKSON (TR6 GURU FROM FLORIDA) SAID IN AN ARTICLE IN GRASSROOTS MOTORSPORTS THAT LATE MODEL (74 AND NEWER TRAILLING ARMS) ALLOW THE CAR TO HANDLE BETTER THAN EARLY MODEL ARMS--DOES ANYBODY KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THIS OR WHY IT IS TRUE, HE WAS REFERING TO THE ARMS THEM SELVES AND NOT THE MOUNTING BRACKETS. THEY ALL LOOK THE SAME TO ME!!
 
I am not aware of any differences in the trailing arms but do know there are different brackets used between the early and late models. The difference is in the location of the trailing arm mounting holes between the inner and outer brackets which control your wheels camber setting.
 
Perhaps its not the trailing arms themselves but the half-axle splines that were redesigned in the later TR6. I could well be wrong but I seem to remember something like this. It would prevent lock-up of these under power.
 
Interesting question, I do not remember reading that.
I will ask about this on the Triumph racing board, where Tim Suddard and JK (and Kas Kastner) are members, should get an answer by tomorrow.
Simon.
 
THIS WAS IN A GRASSROOTS ARTICLE FROM ABOUT 6 YEARS AGO, AND HE SPECIFICALY MENTIONED THE TRAILING ARMS AND NOT THE BRACKETS OR SHAFTS. ALLAN
 
Hi All,
Just for the heck of it I looked in the TRF green book & they show only one part # for the trailing arms. I guess that doesn't mean that all the years were cast the same but only that they were probably interchangable. I've had a 69, 71 & 74 & can't recall any obvious differances. The chassis pick up points are the same. If there was a maunfacturing design change I'll bet it was for strength. The earlier trailing arms were prone to stress cracks.
 
Allan I got two responses both indicating no differences except in the bumpstop; however I have heard of people using Corvair rear hubs on TR6s if they are used for track driving, this is probably to improve durability not handling.
Polyurethane bushings on the trailing arms will prevent unwanted toe-in changes. Also, do the alignment of the car with about 200lbs on the seats, representing the driver, so you get the camber settings correct. A careful alignment with a little negative camber at the front will improve turn in on corners.
Simon, (by the way, your capslock is stuck on.)
 
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