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I am in the process of replacing the rear frame rails on a TR6 for a friend of mine. They are the ones that the A-arms bolt to. How critical is the placement of these. Can I be off an 1/8th of an inch this way or that? I noticed that there were shims in there originaly, so I suspect that the TR6 frame isn't a precision piece. Once I removed the rails in question, I had to do alot of patch work on the longitudinal rails as well. This has turned out to be a realy big job, as the body is still in place. What would one expect to pay for such a job? My friend removed the rear end for me, and purchased the rear rails. All I have to do is remove the old ones and weld in the new ones. Along with all of the patching. I told him $40.00 an hour, and it looks like 12 to 15 hours work.
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TR6 TR6 rear frame repair
- Thread starter tr8todd
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swift6
Yoda
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Those shims are alignment shims and that section of chassis is critical for rear wheel alignment, which on a TR6, is very important given the nature of the rear suspension. You don't have to be SUPER accurate but the closer you are to 'true' then the better the car will drive. At least try to be as accurate as the factory was.
The shims handle toe, track and wheelbase adjustments. Using the Goodparts Adjustable Trailing Arm Brackets can also make getting proper alignment much easier for rear ride height and camber.
If the rear suspension is out of whack, they are terrible to drive and handle atrociously. The poor rubber bushings in the trailing arms were/are an Achilles heel in TR6 handling issues.
The shims handle toe, track and wheelbase adjustments. Using the Goodparts Adjustable Trailing Arm Brackets can also make getting proper alignment much easier for rear ride height and camber.
If the rear suspension is out of whack, they are terrible to drive and handle atrociously. The poor rubber bushings in the trailing arms were/are an Achilles heel in TR6 handling issues.
Tosh
Jedi Trainee
Offline
8T,
My humble observations;
That has been a notoriously weak area of the frame. It is a strong flex point and it seems to have been the first to rust back in the 70's.
Your estimate for time is probably accurate because as you have already seen the more you scratch the more bad you uncover.
I would suspect that this job would be difficult to do right with the body connected to the frame rails.
Keep on.
My humble observations;
That has been a notoriously weak area of the frame. It is a strong flex point and it seems to have been the first to rust back in the 70's.
Your estimate for time is probably accurate because as you have already seen the more you scratch the more bad you uncover.
I would suspect that this job would be difficult to do right with the body connected to the frame rails.
Keep on.