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TR6 tr6 rear disc brakes

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tr6lover

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hi guys, who would be interested in a rear disc brake set up for the tr6? ive got some cad drawings and i want to have a set made up for myself and anyone else who is interested. here is a link for the set up and its on the cheap, probably equivelant to a totally rebuilt disc set up cost wise. https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/don_watson.htm let me know as i have to figure out how many sets for the machine shop to make, thanks
Randy
 
Finally, an E brake disk conversion YEA!!!!I'm in . Probably won't install right away but just to have it.
 
ok sounds good, right now im trying to find a machine shop and get prices, paul (brosky) has come up with one that will make a few sets, but im still checking on prices. thanks guys
Randy
 
Very nice looking Randy!

Do you have an idea what the entire conversion setup
might cost? All the components required.

thanks,

d
 
hey dale, im thinking its going to cost about 150 a set, but thats just a guess. that link i have in the post is not my set up but thats the set up that im going to be duplicating, just dont want to take credit for it. that cost im guestimating is only for the brackets, you still need rotors and calipers which can be priced at the local parts store.
Randy
 
tr6lover said:
hey dale, that cost im guestimating is only for the brackets, you still need rotors and calipers which can be priced at the local parts store.
Randy
Click to expand...

Ah yes, my <span style="font-weight: bold">local parts stores</span>! Lets see- there's Western Auto and then we also
have Western Auto plus we have Western Auto. And then there's Sears auto that
sells mostly tires and bottles of oils.

oh well, my rear drum brakes work pretty good.

Thanks,

dale
 
hey dale, sorry about that. i could look up prices and all for you and send the parts, but im assuming that would probably cost more than getting them locally. nothing but variety on that island huh?
Randy
 
Used to see ads for an outfit in the land of Oz(Australia) that made kits for thses. Believe it was in the rear of Classic Motorsports or Grassroots Motorsports. Might try a search engine search and see what you pull up.

Perhaps SpitBits might know of one.
 
Interesting concept. Consider that one is putting all that stopping power on an inherently weak aluminum housing (the trailing arm). That seems to be a lot of twist on aluminum and 5 bolts in aluminum. Any thoughts here? Drums seem to have a shorter torque angle.
 
I've still yet to see a side by side comparison of the stopping distances between this and the Morgan cylinders upgrade, which cost $58 for two last time I checked.

Given most of the braking is done by the disks up front, I don't see that it can make ~that~ much difference.

Just so you know, if someone does a side by side test and it IS better I'll be right there in line for a set, but until that time it is just suspension bling imo.
 
TR6BILL said:
Interesting concept. Consider that one is putting all that stopping power on an inherently weak aluminum housing (the trailing arm).
Click to expand...

By golly, Bill !! You are correct.

That about kills any ideas I might have had concerning the
rear disks concept. Having had one rear wheel assembly fall
off of the trailing arm, while driving, is an experience
I hope to never repeat.

I'll stay with my drums and leave the T/A in peace.

d
 
Alan I agree with you.I have played with rear brake several times as i increased tire size which in my opinion has a lot to do(if not all) with stopping power..

When I first built my car back in 89 it had 185x15 dunlops and the brakes were adequit, then i went to a 195x15 and noticed a slight loss of brakes in the back so I took out the .70 stock wheel cyl. and put in .75 cyl.used in tr3 with 10"drums (direct replacement) if i remember right.Then I went to a 205 70r x15 and again noticed a loss of brake power.I did put on a set of 240z aluminum drums which really did,nt change anything,looked cool tho.

This winter I did the Morgan wheel cyl. upgrade with brand new alum. drums from TRF which I bought in Laughlin @Triumphest. Once the weather gets a little better i'll give them the works and see if it improved any.Be advised that the wheel cyl's. i got are not a direct replacements, some work required to fit properly, even tho many i talked claim it is direct fitting.

I do notice more freeplay in the pedal by probably
3/4 of inch or so. Will check master cyl. pushrod for clearence as discussed about a month ago,Hondo's thread i think it was.

Dale iknow what your talkin about,had similar experience with a daily driver i had for a while.
puts a lotta pressure the on sphincter muscle momentarily :crazyeyes:phew
no long studs in there for this guy
 
alana said:
I've still yet to see a side by side comparison of the stopping distances between this and the Morgan cylinders upgrade, which cost $58 for two last time I checked.

Given most of the braking is done by the disks up front, I don't see that it can make ~that~ much difference.

Just so you know, if someone does a side by side test and it IS better I'll be right there in line for a set, but until that time it is just suspension bling imo.
Click to expand...

:iagree:
 
There is a test done somewhere. Saw it a few years ago. For all out braking a disk has to stop better more often or they never would have gone that direction.
 
The only tests that I have seen are on Lee Jansen's page and the VTR page. The two are actually based on the same testing but the conclusions differ slightly between them. Oh, and these tests involve the differences between standard front brakes and Toyota Four pot calipers, with and without larger (Morgan) rear wheel cylinders. They do not encompass rear disc conversions.

There were other reasons for switching to discs as well but all those reasons still doesn't change what Alan, Casey and myself are all getting at. The rear brakes on the TR6 don't do very much of the braking, only about 10%. Enough to help with stability and provide a good parking brake but not much else. Just slapping on a disc conversion will not yield better braking.

The only way that a rear disc conversion would be effective is to redistribute the braking proportions as well. So if your willing to also change your master cylinder set up as well, you could possibly greatly enhance your rear braking. Though you could do the same thing with better shoes and Alfin drums as well and also see improved braking.

Adding a disc conversion could also add extra weight and complication.

Casey brings up an excellent point though. Your tires actually stop your car. The brakes convert kinetic energy into heat. Tires really are not places to skimp on money if you like to drive in a spirited manner. Tires that have higher speed and traction ratings will also reduce your braking distances. High mileage and cheap, low speed and traction rated tires will not. As Casey also pointed out, wider tires don't always help with braking (or cornering).

Its always a balancing act!
 
Shawn- i totally agree with you on the proportioning matter. I think it is a given.
If you do this set up you must run a proportioning valve!
 
DNK said:
For all out braking a disk has to stop better more often or they never would have gone that direction.
Click to expand...
Not 'better', just 'more often'. The advantage of disc brakes is that they cool better, so less likely to overheat under extreme conditions. But my experience is that the front discs will overheat first even with drums out back, so any upgrades should start in the front, IMO.
 
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