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TR6 TR6 Head Studs

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vettedog72

Jedi Knight
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When the TR6 head was machined, all the studs were removed (by the shop). I do not know if the long thread ends or the short ends go in the head for the intake and exhuast manifolds. Please advise and thanks in advance.
 
Long in, short out. It probably wouldn't hurt for you to go to a bolt shop that has industrial quality nuts and bolts and buy new studs. Sometimes the local NAPA shop would have them but it is hard to find SAE threaded studs on both ends. Never did like to stretch 30-year-old bolts too much. Wouldn't hurt to get new nuts too. Never reuse split washers.

Bill
 
Thanks Bill. I got some new studs. NAPA was unable to help; but, with your comments I may get it together this weekend.
 
Well, this gets more interesting every day. We were sent the wrong intake manifold bolts. Now it looks like the long in, short out orientation doesn't leave enough thread to get the nut all the way on. This is just looking at the exhaust and clmap studs, since I haven't messed with the intake studs lately. It occurs to me that when I began disassembly, the studs were short side in, and when I got the head back from the shop, they were definetly short side in. Everything fit when I disassembled it. Did this head have unorginal studs or what? Why are the new studs, and even the old studs, looking too short when examined long end in? Thanks.

Andy
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Really frustrated here with the manifold studs. The head was machined back in 1976 and all manifolds etc all fitted up nicely. I did not pull the manifold studs out for the milling operation in 1976 and the shop did not say anything about the studs. Now comes a new cut off the old head with a different machine shop and they, after milling the head, advised they had to remove the manifold studs and one broke, go get another as they don't have any. I ordered new studs from BV and after examination, it appears that all my studs that were in the head were in "short end in the head" and nothing will fit up with the long end in the head. I don't know if this is an odd head or if the machine shop back in 1976 just fitted up some studs with out regards to "originality".

The studs received from Victoria don't seem close except for the very bottom row of studs. Do you know the spec's on the manifold side studs; ie. long and short side lengths, diameters, and length of spacers etc.?
 
If when you put a stud long end into a hole & bottom it out, there are still threads sticking up, put the short end in the hole. OTOH, sometimes the holes are drilled & tapped clear through & the stud only stops at the threaded shoulder. There are still ample threads on the short end to hold things securely. Leave the long end out.
D
 
But, I mean darn, isn't there some standardization to this?
 
I've been the stud route with two different good vendors, and have gotten different studs from both. Several of the studs for the exhaust are headed right toward the head bolts, meaning that too long a stud won't fit. There is probably some standardization, back in England when they built them, so I just go to a good bolt shop and get several and use the ones that work. You want the blank space to be in no-man's-land and you definately don't want too much stud sticking out, you might not get your intake on. You definately won't get a header on! I had to round out the corner on two of my nuts (no, not those) and use a good star washer to get them to bite. Sucked everything down nice and snug, then checked with my Snap-On torque wrench (only Snap-On tool I own, maybe when I hit the lottery) to 25lbs. Took quite a bit more torque. Guess I will retorque after I run it a while.

Bill
 
Well crap. I guess I'll just try running some of them backwards. Do you foresee any problems with loading the short threads in the head? Thanks
 
General practice is to install studs with the short threads to the casting, nuts on the long side. You only need 1.5 stud diameters of thread engagement for maximum holding power anyway, so why install the long side in?
Jeff
 
My son is "Rabid Dolphin" and he is doing a little "labor" for old dad on my TR6. Not only am I old but the car is in the Atlanta area and I work most of the time in LA. The question about studs came up because the machine shop broke one upon removal and that started the chase and high lighted my lack of knowledge about studs. I thought there would be a standard of how studs are set so I posed the question on this news group and was informed that the long end goes in the block. You comments about short thread side in the block works well for me and explaines how things held together since '76. I still need a few new/replacement studs because one is missing and some have buggered threads from vise grip removal. I need the spec's so I can start the hunt as VB was way off on the studs they supplied. Now, if the short side goes in the head, I can resolve the problem using the old studs. Thanks for your help.
 
Glad to help. A couple of tips that may make life easier in the future is to use anti-sieze on the threads, and don't over tighten the studs when installing them in the casting. Information that I have calls for 48 in lbs, little more than finger tight.
Jeff
 
Thanks for your help. I'm not particularly concerned with the studs seizing in the threads, as ~half of them came out with the nuts upon disassembly. I'm using plug wire pliers to tighten the studs, I think they provide a a similar amount of torque before slipping.
 
A little extra advice. If any of the stud holes are blind, make very sure that the the holes are absolutely clean first. If any of the holes are not blind (go into the water jackets) use a good sealer on the threads.
D
 
Any idea which threads are which? What would a good thread sealer be?
 
I would imagine that they are SAE 24 fine. (am I wrong on the thread count?) Some have combo's of fine and course thread, the course for the outer. Never make this mistake. Course thread will come unscrewed too easily.

Bill
 
[ QUOTE ]
Any idea which threads are which? What would a good thread sealer be?

[/ QUOTE ]
The blind holes don't go into the water jackets or places containing oil. The through holes DO go into the water jackets. Poke a screwdriver into the holes & if it goes in more than an inch it is likely a through hole. Or blow air into the holes with a snug fitting hose. If the air goes somewhere, it is a through hole.

I want to stress cleaning out the holes first. A long time ago, I tried screwing a head bolt into a blind hole that was half full of coolant. The hydraulic pressure actually blew a chunk out of the bolt boss in the block.

I have good luck with"Permatex Aviation "Form-A-Gasket" sealant liquid on stud threads. It doesn't hurt anything to put it on all of the studs.
D
 
Dave, are you sure that some of the stud holes for the manifold go into the water jacket. I think that they are all blind holes. At least on the head of my TR6. I am a firm believer in Permatex Aviation gasket sealer but I put mine in dry.

Bill
 
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