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TR6 TR6 Halfshaft replacement

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How ugly is this gonna be? Can I fish it out from the diff end w/o having to take the suspension apart or the diff out?

Are the joints replacable? Thanks.
 
It can get ugly. I believe the TR6 joints are normally replaceable (even though early Stags are not). To get to the outer joint, you need to remove the wheel and brake drum, then undo the hub from the trailing arm. Suspension and brakes can stay together.

The ugly part comes in when one of the studs pulls out as you are putting it back together.
 
Billy, as Randall says not to bad,very doable with the correct length wrenches (something in the head says there is some weird angles involved)
It's the repairing them that is trickey
 
rearhalfshaft.jpg


I would use a box/ring wrench on the inner 4 bolts. They torque to 120ftlb. The outer torque holding the 6 that secure the hub housing to the TA torques to 16 ftlb and no more. The u-joints are very doable.

here is a video that's fairly good...it took me far longer than the 5 minutes...take your time....
5 minute U-joint

Good Luck
Tim
 
Tim Tucker said:
I would use a box/ring wrench on the inner 4 bolts. They torque to 120ftlb.

I don't have a manual handy, but I don't believe that is correct. Those are only 3/8" NF bolts, and the standard torque for even a Grade 8 3/8 NF is only 60 ftlb. And the original nuts are not only not high tensile, they are thin profile. I'm guessing that more like 20 ftlb is correct.

FWIW, I use all-metal locknuts instead of the Nylocs. Even new Nylocs seem to loosen up over time for me.
 
kellysguy said:
How ugly is this gonna be? Can I fish it out from the diff end w/o having to take the suspension apart or the diff out?

Are the joints replacable? Thanks.

It's not too bad of a job. As Don sez, it's the replacing the joints that's tricky. I had a driveline shop do all the joints on the halfshafts for $60, well worth it to me...

IMG_0833.jpg


After pickup
 
Joints don't scare me, I've been doin' them since I was a kid. I didn't know if they were replacable or not. Some Datsuns you need to replace the whole shaft. The caps are staked into place. That's not bad if it come out the arm like that. That's the first thing I've even seen on this thing that makes sense!
 
They're replaceable joints.
Just need a 600 trillion lb press to take em apart
 
That was one of the first jobs that I did on my TR4A at the tender age of 18 and a mechanical virgin to boot. I always thought it was a simple design and wasn't difficult. Being able to do it successfully gave me the confidence to keep going!

Scott
 
TR3driver said:
Tim Tucker said:
I would use a box/ring wrench on the inner 4 bolts. They torque to 120ftlb.

I don't have a manual handy, but I don't believe that is correct. Those are only 3/8" NF bolts, and the standard torque for even a Grade 8 3/8 NF is only 60 ftlb. And the original nuts are not only not high tensile, they are thin profile. I'm guessing that more like 20 ftlb is correct.

FWIW, I use all-metal locknuts instead of the Nylocs. Even new Nylocs seem to loosen up over time for me.

My apologies! I was thinking of the flange-to-inner axle torque. 34 ft-lbs per the manual,
 
HerronScott said:
That was one of the first jobs that I did on my TR4A at the tender age of 18 and a mechanical virgin to boot. I always thought it was a simple design and wasn't difficult. Being able to do it successfully gave me the confidence to keep going!

Scott

funny, i got the same start on a spitfire at about the same age. changed a u-joint, with only previous experience being replacing sparkplugs on a pinto...
 
hondo is right. Put the GoodParts CV half shafts on my TR250 about a year ago. They are worth the cost. Very high quality.

Bruce
 
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