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TR6 TR6 Gaiters [bellows]
- Thread starter tr6web
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Mark,
You are taking the outer ball joint tie rod ends off first, right? If you back out the lock nut so that you can count the threads from the ball joint assembly to the inner end of the threaded rod, you can reassemble them to the same depth and probably not have to redo your alignment. With these off, just use lots of axle grease to slide the new gaiters on. Most people just use stainless band clamps to hold them in place after they are on. Purists will use the bailing wire with the ends made up in a nice little circle. Good luck.
Bill
You are taking the outer ball joint tie rod ends off first, right? If you back out the lock nut so that you can count the threads from the ball joint assembly to the inner end of the threaded rod, you can reassemble them to the same depth and probably not have to redo your alignment. With these off, just use lots of axle grease to slide the new gaiters on. Most people just use stainless band clamps to hold them in place after they are on. Purists will use the bailing wire with the ends made up in a nice little circle. Good luck.
Bill
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tr6web
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Yes, I just disconnected the outer ball joint. It just seems the gaiters (from TRF) match up to the rack and pinion body but need to be stretched over them. I can't get them to stretch over no matter what I do. The grease keeps me from getting needle nose pliers or a screw driver to assist in the stretching.
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Dumb thing, but there is a right and left. Try pre-stretching them without damaging them. They really should slide on.
Bill
Bill
Mike,
Try this thread for a possible solution:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...;page=47#114425
I came across it a while back - I've not tried it myself, but it seems a pretty good idea for the stretching.
Cheers,
Mark
Try this thread for a possible solution:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...;page=47#114425
I came across it a while back - I've not tried it myself, but it seems a pretty good idea for the stretching.
Cheers,
Mark
No doubt about it, this part of the job is a pain in the butt.
I can't speak for TRF gaiters, but the Moss ones seems to be slightly undersized.
You can stretch them manually as well, and don't be afraid to really work them as they'll take more pulling that you would initially think. You'll have a clamp on them afterwords, so don't be concerned about making them too loose (but obviously don't rip them).
I've found that it usually works best if you focus on getting one part of the gaiter over the lip of the rack and then [focus here people - what follows is strickly auto maintence technique] stick your well greased finger in the gaiter and then run your finger around the rest until it is seated. Hurts a bit, but very effective.
I can't speak for TRF gaiters, but the Moss ones seems to be slightly undersized.
You can stretch them manually as well, and don't be afraid to really work them as they'll take more pulling that you would initially think. You'll have a clamp on them afterwords, so don't be concerned about making them too loose (but obviously don't rip them).
I've found that it usually works best if you focus on getting one part of the gaiter over the lip of the rack and then [focus here people - what follows is strickly auto maintence technique] stick your well greased finger in the gaiter and then run your finger around the rest until it is seated. Hurts a bit, but very effective.
Geo Hahn
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On my TR4 I found I could stretch the boot over a jar or such but the stretch was quickly lost in the hectic seconds it took to get it from the jar to the rack.
Instead I transferred the stretched boot to a plastic lid of a spray paint can putting the boot over the open end of the lid. This can be done quickly at the comfort of your workbench. With the boot about a quarter inch onto the lid I then trimmed the lid with Xacto & shears leaving just a quarter-inch ring of plastic inside the lip of the boot -- still holding it stretched. The boot was then big enough to go over the rack, after which I pulled out the plastic ring and cut it to remove it.
Again, this was a TR4 so it may or not work for you.
Instead I transferred the stretched boot to a plastic lid of a spray paint can putting the boot over the open end of the lid. This can be done quickly at the comfort of your workbench. With the boot about a quarter inch onto the lid I then trimmed the lid with Xacto & shears leaving just a quarter-inch ring of plastic inside the lip of the boot -- still holding it stretched. The boot was then big enough to go over the rack, after which I pulled out the plastic ring and cut it to remove it.
Again, this was a TR4 so it may or not work for you.
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Try rolling it back on itself, kinda like a condom.
Bill
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tr6web
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Well, I managed to get them on today. My solution, after trying the wine bottle and hair dryer thing, which didn't work for me, I used my finger and a pair of needle nose pliers. I pried one end over the inner tie rod, and got my finger in the other side which I then stretched and kind of rolled my finger around the edge. After 10-20 tries, I was able to slide them on. I really don't want to do that again! Now I have to align the wheels...any suggestions for an amateur?
Geo Hahn
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I align using a 6-foot folding ruler, some masking tape, pencil and either a spirit level or rafter square (if your garage floor is pretty flat & true).
Roll the car to a stop (don't lower it from jacks) with front tires at corect pressure.
Mark the spot at 3:00 on the fat part of D/S front tire using the tape and pencil. Use the square or level to mark on the floor (tape and pencil) the corresponding point directly below that spot. Do the same for the 9:00 position on the P/S front tire. Mark these with an "R".
Roll the car backwards 1/2 turn of the tires -- your marks are now at 9:00 on D/S and 3:00 P/S. Same thing with level or square. Mark these with an "F".
Roll the car back some more. The distance between the marks from the front of the tire minus the marks from the rear give you a toe-in/toe-out figure. Note: the marks are sort of reversed on your floor, i.e. the rear marks are the ones farther forward.
You have to interpolate a bit as the measurement you are making is at a diameter that is less that the full diameter of the tire -- unless your aim is zero toe-in in which case zero is zero.
You will have to experiment a bit to learn how much you turn a tie-rod to get a particular change in toe-in.
This is just one method, there are several others using scribes, chalk, thumb tacks & string as well as assorted tools for doing this. Find a method that works for you, keep notes and soon it will be a ten-minute job to set the alignment.
Roll the car to a stop (don't lower it from jacks) with front tires at corect pressure.
Mark the spot at 3:00 on the fat part of D/S front tire using the tape and pencil. Use the square or level to mark on the floor (tape and pencil) the corresponding point directly below that spot. Do the same for the 9:00 position on the P/S front tire. Mark these with an "R".
Roll the car backwards 1/2 turn of the tires -- your marks are now at 9:00 on D/S and 3:00 P/S. Same thing with level or square. Mark these with an "F".
Roll the car back some more. The distance between the marks from the front of the tire minus the marks from the rear give you a toe-in/toe-out figure. Note: the marks are sort of reversed on your floor, i.e. the rear marks are the ones farther forward.
You have to interpolate a bit as the measurement you are making is at a diameter that is less that the full diameter of the tire -- unless your aim is zero toe-in in which case zero is zero.
You will have to experiment a bit to learn how much you turn a tie-rod to get a particular change in toe-in.
This is just one method, there are several others using scribes, chalk, thumb tacks & string as well as assorted tools for doing this. Find a method that works for you, keep notes and soon it will be a ten-minute job to set the alignment.