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TR6 TR6 front brakes make loud noise
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SilentUnicorn
Yoda
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squizing noise ??????
still trying to imagine that sound...squealing can be caused by vibration between the calliper and the pad. i good coating of anti-squeal (available in any automotive store) can help this. as long as this squizing noise .. is not a metal to metal kinda sound. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
mark
still trying to imagine that sound...squealing can be caused by vibration between the calliper and the pad. i good coating of anti-squeal (available in any automotive store) can help this. as long as this squizing noise .. is not a metal to metal kinda sound. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
mark
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
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Jeff, you learn something everyday. I have always treated new brakes with ease from fear of glazing and after a 100 miles or so reset the rears and left the fronts alone, but even at this procedure it was a while before you could feel the brakes were grabing better. So now I know, just stomp h... out of them, right before the lockup. Wayne
SilentUnicorn
Yoda
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jeff, would you describe you sop for doing that?
thanx
mark
thanx
mark
Glad to, Mark.
I run the car up to about 50MPH or so, and then make a fairly hard stop, just at the point of impending lock up. Then drive for two or three miles without applying the brakes to allow everything to cool, and do it again. I generally do it about 10 or 15 times total. This procedure allows the pads to "bed" themselves to the rotor surface, that is, allowing the pads to make full, flush, contact with the surface of the rotor, while also allowing any residual chemicals in the pads to boil off.
One component of brake squeal is the outgassing of the pads, which essentially allows gas bubbles to form between the pad and rotor, causing vibration of the pad, resulting in noise.
While this is not a cure all, as there may be other reasons for the noise, it eliminates a majority of brake squeal, while also maximizing the efficiency of the brakes.
I hope I've described it well enough.
When I had a chance to do this with an insrumented test vehicle, a marked increase in brake performance, and elimination of noise was noted.
The down side is that sometimes it is difficult to find a suitable section of deserted road to do it safely!
Jeff
I run the car up to about 50MPH or so, and then make a fairly hard stop, just at the point of impending lock up. Then drive for two or three miles without applying the brakes to allow everything to cool, and do it again. I generally do it about 10 or 15 times total. This procedure allows the pads to "bed" themselves to the rotor surface, that is, allowing the pads to make full, flush, contact with the surface of the rotor, while also allowing any residual chemicals in the pads to boil off.
One component of brake squeal is the outgassing of the pads, which essentially allows gas bubbles to form between the pad and rotor, causing vibration of the pad, resulting in noise.
While this is not a cure all, as there may be other reasons for the noise, it eliminates a majority of brake squeal, while also maximizing the efficiency of the brakes.
I hope I've described it well enough.
When I had a chance to do this with an insrumented test vehicle, a marked increase in brake performance, and elimination of noise was noted.
The down side is that sometimes it is difficult to find a suitable section of deserted road to do it safely!
Jeff
Wayne, I wouldn't exactly advocate stomping the h--l out of them. Its more of a steady, firm application. When doing it on an instumented vehicle there was a specified decelleration rate to maintain, but it was essentially a steady, hard, stop without locking anything up. By experience, I learned to maintain the proper de-cel rate without looking at the instruments.
"Babying" a new set of pads or rotors is probably the least desireable thing to do, as it can actually glaze the pads and promote squeal.
I neglected to mention that this procedure should also be followed after rotor replacement.
Jeff
"Babying" a new set of pads or rotors is probably the least desireable thing to do, as it can actually glaze the pads and promote squeal.
I neglected to mention that this procedure should also be followed after rotor replacement.
Jeff