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TR6 tr6 floor board replacement

jackag91

Jedi Warrior
Offline
How skilled do you need to be to try this? I've done some metal work and I have people that can weld at my disposal, but I am worried it might be more than I can handle.
 
jackag91 said:
How skilled do you need to be to try this? I've done some metal work and I have people that can weld at my disposal, but I am worried it might be more than I can handle.

Skilled is not the adjective. Crazy is more appropriate.

I am in the process of doing such. I have complicated the whole process by doing the floorboards on a restored car, trying not to disturb the rest of the car.
The big questions I would have for you are, is the car being restored or are you attempting such on a finished car like me?
And how bad are the floors to begin with and how good is the sheet metal on any other parts of the car that connect to the floors. (Case in point, my car only needs the floors redone. Rockers, etc. are all solid. This is important.)

And, are you using the Heritage floorboards as replacement parts or are you going to attempt to make your own?
 
From my experience, they fit very well except fot some hammer and dolly work on the outer rear area and the sill lip.
 
I would just buy new floorboards. The car hasn't been restored...someone just covered it with a maco paint job at one point. The rest of the body seems ok, but the floorboards are pretty bad and one of the rockers is bent.

Until the brakes went out I was really enjoying the car as it was, but it did need a new interior.

So if I do this, I will most likely just do a full frame off on it.
 
Jackag, my suggestion is that floor replacement is not as difficult as it is dirty.Dont be too afraid of it. Before you decide to do a frame off, get the wings off and really see what the car needs to be "right" again. Dallas cars dont need a frame off resto as often as cars from other areas.
MD(mad dog)
 
tdskip said:
Bill - how well do the new Heritage floorboard fit?

They look as though they came off the same tooling. Fit is good. But darn if they don't seem awfully thin to me. Had to cut way back on the MIG settings as I was burning it up.

I have cut and chipped and razorbladed and wire brushed and sanded to the point that I cannot go any more. I had to resort to paint stripper to get the metal clean. Just a lot of cleanup.
 
Hey Bill!! How ya doing ?

You wrote:

"get the wings off and really see what the
car needs to be "right" .

?? What is a wing?
?? Where are they located?
?? How do you take them off?
?? What do you look for beneath them?

just curious-

Dale- who is today Wendy's gardener in
sunny and warm Bayamon, PR
 
The car is a virgina car.

Here is a link to the bottom of the floor boards.

warning: they ain't pretty

Passneger's floor
P1010523.jpg


Driver's floor
P1010521.jpg
 
Dale -

"Wing" is the word we Brits use for "fender". So, the car has 2 front and 2 rear wings.

Hope you track down the car soon....once they realise what they have and the car has played a trick or two, they'll be tracking you down and begging you to take it back! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Cheers,
Mark
 
Thanks mark!

But why would I want to take them off?
....................................

I'm not too awfully worried about the Crypt Car.

It does not run so how far can it be pushed?

It does not run so no used car lot wants it.

There is almost zero market here for old Brit cars.

If it were stripped, who on the island needs the parts?

It's a white elephant that will end up back in the
crypt sooner or later.

d
 
I see someone did the ole bolt-through-the-frame to get the seats stay in. You might be alright. Are you gonna do this with the engine and tranny in place. Be a lot easier if you pull it. But, it is not imperative that you do. Just makes for more room to work.

I strongly suspect that the perimeter of the floorboards are intact, meaning not a bunch of rust. Do you have a large capacity air compressor? You will need it if you are going to use a cutoff wheel. Those things, cheap as they are, eat a lot of air. If not, you can use a RotoZip with the angles cutoff attachment. Cheap tool. But eats discs like I eat candy. Buy lots. I found that a nibbler works great for cutting out the floorboard. You can buy an air nibbler that any small compressor can use. My nibbler fits on the end of my drill. Nibbler won't go over the few spots where the floorboard rests on frame, although you can lift it a bit with a pry bar. Nibbler sticks down about 1/4" below working surface. I think you can cut out the whole floorboard and leave a shelf of about 1" all around to weld to, more in the back where there is less rust.

I welded my first floorboard in this afternoon. What a feeling of accomplishment. When I get it further along, I will post pics and a little story, for color.
 
Bill,

I'd be greatful if you would post those pictures. I really want to know what I would be getting in to before I jumped.
 
OK, here's what I have so far.
floor2.jpg

floor3.jpg

floor4.jpg

floor5.jpg


All the metal that I left around the perimeter and in the back was as solid as a rock. Got to clean up the welds and connect
a few more spots. Then the whole interior gets a coat of red lead primer and chassis black.
 
Looks jus' fine from here! Seal the underside seams and the whole thing is good for a looong time. "Knitting" with metal! It should have stiffened up considerably after you got it stitched the whole way 'round.

...nice seam match-up, BTW.
 
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