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TR6 TR6 fenders & innards...

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tdskip

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I've grudgingly realized that I'm not going to have the TR4 floors and sills repairs to be welded in time (something about two young kids and having to work), but in order to make use of my friend's friend offer to help I me with some welding thought I'd address the TR6 fenders.

The passenger side is pretty bad at the bottom where the drain, and the firewall there needs some help as well. Same darn spot as the TR4a - you'd think they would have fixed the drainage problem with later cars....

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Unfortunately, they needed to perfect the fender sealing plates. The drains worked fine until clogged with dirt. The debris inside remained wet until the metal rusted through.
They needed the fenders to rust out faster to solve the dirt problem. It was probably a marketing plan.
 
When you eventually get it all together, run an extended rubber drain hose from you scuttle all the way down to the front of the fender door at the bottom and exit onto the ground instead of inside your fender.
 
Believe it or not, that part of the fender is not that difficult to make a repair panel for. Look at it close and you will see there are no compound curves. That said, I would be challenged to make one, but would not be afraid to try.
Link to example
https://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/pstr612.html
https://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/pstr613.html

If the rest of the fender is sound, look around your area for a body shop willing to do the work or find used or otherwise damaged fenders not rusted on the bottom which can be used or from which the repaired part can be cut.

Otherwise, you are looking a $600-$1,100 each for fenders that need additional work to fit.

This link will take you to the Metalmeet forum, where a bunch of guys that like beating sheet metal can give you some encouragement.
https://www.metalmeet.com/forum/index.php
 
TR6BILL said:
run an extended rubber drain hose from you scuttle all the way down to the front of the fender door at the bottom and exit onto the ground instead of inside your fender.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill.

Same size width OK?

If it runs to the ground I guess it doesn't really matter where it drains, right?
 
The ones I have seen exit into the wheel well at the bottom of that long door that covers the opening into this blind cavity. They just cut a small hole or notch the door a bit to hold the rubber hose. Actually, this is probably more like a plastic hose that is in the car now. Just replace the whole thing with a long enough piece to exit out. Rubber is too soft, this is plastic I think. My friend rebuilt his TR4A with this setup and it works very well.
 
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