TR6 TR6 Diff. question

[bigbadbluetr6]

My TR6 has started leaking out of the front and rear of my diff. Just thinking I would take it out and replace the seals and gasket. In my journey into the project I am unable to get one of the mounting nuts lose. The problem is the stud that should be welded into the frame has came lose and just spins when the nut is turned. Its very frustrated because I can't get anything on the stud to be able to try and hold the stud in place while I try and get the nut off. Do I just try and replace the gasket and the front oil seal while the diff. is still in the car or should I try and cut the nut off the stud? The only other thing I can think of is to just check and see how much oil has leaked out and just make sure about every time I change my oil to put some in the rear diff. Not the same weight of course. I know this would be the quick fix and have to be addressed at a later date. Any ideas on how I should get the nut lose or should I just keep putting oil in the rear end every once in a while? Any thing to help or idea is welcome because its very lovely outside and my cars on jack stands. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Mark_Gibson]

Eric,

I would definitely get that diff mount fixed. It won't be an easy fix with the body on the car, but you're basically just using 3 studs right now to hold the diff in place. It's a weak point on these cars to begin with, and by not addressing it you're asking for problems much worse than a leaky diff down the road. Maybe someone else on here has run into this problem before. I fixed mine while the body was off the car during my restoration. Good luck,

Mark
1970 TR-6

 

[TRTEL]

Hi, It's been so long since I've worked on those things can't remember for sure if there's enough clearance for you to get a nut cracker on it, so you could at least get the housing out of the way. If you can, first weaken the nut by drilling the flat where the cutter will split it with a couple of new sharp bits. Maybe a 1/8" followed by a 1/4" down to just shy (naturally) of the threads. It will make it much easier to split. Good luck.
Tom Lains
ps. Don't know what to suggest with the stud if you can't get a wire or arc welding stick back there.

 

[ROADSTR6]

Another option is to cut a section out of the "shelf" behind the seats. Cut two U's out to make access "doors" and fold the sheet metal back out of the way. This will allow you to get to the top of the mount. Also, the mount will have to be welded back in place anyway, so having acess to the top will make welding the mount much, much easier. When you're done with the mount repair, fold back your access "doors" and weld them back up. Grind, prime and paint your welds. Since the sheet metal will be covered with carpet anyway, nobody will ever know you made a repair there. Good luck!

 

[Dugger]

I had the same issue with my TR.

This is what I did.

I took a Dremel Tool with a fiber cut-off wheel and cut the nut on two sides nearly to the threads, then, a chisel [or old screwdriver] and spread the nut until it came off [ with a little persuasion]. But that's just me!

Others in this forum may have a better idea.

I do have a small vice grip tool that has a long snouth that I believe would reach the mounting bolts, but I doubt that it would hold the bolt sufficiently to remove the nyloks. You might try a strap wrench, or fabricate a similar tool with an old leather belt - besure you remove all traces of grease or oil before you attemot to use it. [I have one of those too..okay I am nuts, but it works great on odd or hard to reach stuff - like frozen oil filters or stuck drain piping].

If you have a broken rear differential mount and I am assuming it is the driver's side, I would suspect that the front (opposite) passenger side mount is also broken or at least fatigued from the additional torque loads. [Mine was]This mount will need a close inspection for cracks or fatigue.

If you have access to a welder and some scrap metal, you can fabricate some simple reinforcements for theses two areas and weld them from beneath the car. I believe you can purchase fabricated reinforcing plates also. I used a wooden mockup of the differential to align the bolts before tacking them in place - then - welding in the reinforcing plates after I removed the mockup.

AS mentioned, you can cut 'U' shapes from the parcel shelf to access the tops of the bolts for welding reinforcing.

From the sound of it, you definitely need to remove the diff. Not because it is leaking a bit, but mostly because it has a frame issue that needs attention.

 

[ROADSTR6]

The Roadster Factory sells a differential reinforcement kit. This is what I used when I did mine. I did all the welding from under the car. I also caught my clothes on fire and burned my arms with weld spatter. If I had cut the sheet metal shelf as I'm telling you that you should do, it would have made my life much easier. Live and learn!

 

[bigbadbluetr6]

well heres what I did. after cutting a hole in my passenger compartment my dad and I were able to get vise grips on the top of the stud. This proved enough to get the nut lose. After getting the diff. lose we soon found out we had to remove the exhaust so we took that off. now the diff. came right down. got the front oil seal out and replaced it. In my manual it says that I should be able to take the side shafts off to replace those seals to. trying to get the side shafts off with some force nothing happened. Is there a secret to getting the side shafts off? now all i've got to do is replace the gasket and put everything back together. since i don't have a welder at the house I'm gonna leave the secret door there and drive it over to a friends and have them weld everything back together. still a work in progress but its looking downhill from here.