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TR6 Tr6 clutch slave cylinder replacement

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roofman

roofman

Jedi Knight
Offline
Got the driver side of the new interior in today. Going to take a quick ride and DOINK the clutch pedal goes to the floor and can't get out of nuetral. Car sat for 2-3 months.
I know my slave cylinder is leaky, so thats were I will start. Fluid was low, adding some did nothing to help.
1972 TR6.
How difficult to replace? What else should I do at the same time? Best fluid to use? Sage advice? Thanks
 
Easy replacement, be sure to check the flimsy plastic fluid line between the clutch master piping and the slave cylinder.
 
My clutch master and slave cylinder were both new units (4 years old) and both started to leak. Now these were Girling units, bought new. Instead of replacing with more of the same, I chose to send them off to Apple Hydraulics to have them both sleeved, and be done with it. If units rebuildable, better to have them sleeved than buy new. Also, slightly less money. 5 days turnaround.
 
Hey Roofman!!

Remember back in December when Crypty
blew up and stranded me?

All Crypty's clutch hydraulics were brand spanking new
except the plastic tube between master and slave.

And still the clutch pedal went to the floor with
hydraulic fluid all over the place. Stuck in second
gear in the middle of a street while driving along.

It was DPO Pedro's DPlastic hose!

First thing to check is that *&%^&(#! plastic hose.
I replaced mine with braided stainless steel line
and I have had no blow ups since then.

regards,

d
 
Thanks guys, I happened to purchase a new one last fall, ready to install. I just took off the old one and it was full of rusty oily crude, and the whole unit covered in oil. Hose looks good, will replace also.
Question 1, the push rod has some pitting on it, and I wire wheeled it to clean up. Does the pitting matter?
Question 2, best way to bleed the system?
Question 3, on my old valve you can press the piston inside and it springs right back, on the new one I pushed it in and it stayed in a compressed position down in the valve, sound normal?
and 4, DOT 4 fluid?
 
The system will pretty much self-bleed when you open the bleeder valve. Just don’t let all of the fluid escape the reservoir on the master is fairly small. Hook a hose to the valve and place the other end into a collection jar and crack open the valve a couple of times. That should be all it needs.
 
Found the bleed info. in the Bentley manual. Am concerned there is not spring back in new cylinder, and not sure about previous questions posted.
 
Just replaced mine last week. 20 minute job replacing it, simple bolt on, bleeding the system took longer than that. Bought mine off of Ebay and paid $32. Email me if you want the seller's store site. My mechanic said to check the line also and added that he doesn't think the upgrade to the braided line was worth the $45-50 cost. Mity Vac bleeder from AutoZone was worth the money.
 
Aloha Roofman,

I'm not a TR6 guy but my TR3 is very similar as far as the clutch slave cylinder goes. Here are my answers to your questions,

1. I would not worry about the pitting on the push rod, clean it up and as long as it won't shred the rubber dust cap it should be fine.

2. Gravity bleed will work fine. If you are replacing the master, bench bleed that before installing. Make sure when the slave is installed the bleeder is above the flexible line into the slave. This will allow any trapped air to escape through the bleeder.

3. The spring not pushing the seal to me indicates a tight seal and is a good thing. If you add some brake fluid to the cylinder, it will probably allow the spring to move the seal.

4. I would use the DOT 4 if that is what you use in the brakes. Dot 4 tends to absorb less moisture than DOT 3. I have used DOT 5 in my car for several years with out any problem. This conversion is something to consider when you overhaul the entire hydraulics of the car.
 
Thanks everyone, guess what I will be doing today.
 
SWEET SUCCESS- THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE
 
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