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TR6 TR6 Clutch Master

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vettedog72

Jedi Knight
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I just changed my OEM clutch master (many times rebuilt) with a TRW brand I got off ebay. It was delivered for $53 and looked really nice. It has the TRW logo cast on the side of the cylinder and appears to be high quality. I did notice the "bearing" area of the clevis seemed thinner than the OEM I removed. After closer inspection, the OEM seemed to have been modified with thick washers welded to the sides of the clevis so as to give much more "bearing" area to the clevis. The clevis pin had some wear but not excessive. The new cylinder took a few pumps and seemed to self bleed so I did not have to even get under the car! I have no regrets with the TRW clutch master.
 
Good to know, thanks.

While on the topic, I'm just now trying to decide whether to replace or rebuild my clutch cylinders for my '76 Spit. The symptom is that the clutch will "fade" every so often. I'll be running throught the gears and now and then, the pedal will fall to the floor with no pressure. If I clutch again right away it's there. The system has been bled, so I presume I've got a cylinder going bad.

The clutch itself is fairly new. I've had the car a couple years and I don't know how many times either cylinder might have been rebuilt. I've also noticed that rebuild kits seem more readily available for master cylinder than for slave cylinder. Is the master more likely to be the issue than the slave? I'm trying to figure out whether to touch one component at a time, or replace the system wholesale.

Any input is appreciated.
 
:iagree:
IOW, if the slave is the problem, you'll be losing fluid every time it happens. Assuming you aren't losing any fluid, I'd start by inspecting the MC, and rebuilding it if the bore is in good condition.
But any significant pits in the seal area means it's time for a new one.
 
And to suggest an answer on the the single component vs whole system, just replace the most likely bad item otherwise you are potentially opening up other issues.

Keep us posted!
 
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