• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR6 tr6 clutch master cyl

Share this page

B

bigmc

Freshman Member
Offline
howdy - i rebuilt clutch master and slave with moss mtr kit. all seemed to go well until time to bleed. clutch moves piston in master cyl but piston takes minutes to return. the gasket seems too tight. the first pedal pump moves fluid through the slave but subsequent pedal pumps do nothing as the master piston is still compressed for several minutes. anyone else had this prob? and hints for getting the cylinder out of the bore now that it is "stuck"? thanks for yoiur attention - it really helps.
 
i may have found the problem: there are two bore diameters. '72 and later are .70" while previous is .75" - that 5 thousands would seem just enough to screw things up for later models.
 
Hello Bigmc,
for the record, that is 50 thousandths, nearly 1\16"

Alec
thirsty.gif
 
Did you lubricate everything with Castrol/Girling brake fluid before reassembling? You probably won't like what I say, but I've been told by at least 3 different mechanics never to buy hydraulic rebuild kits. They told me they're more trouble than they're worth. I've put both a new brake and clutch master cylinder on my TR6 myself, bled both systems with the "Eezi Bleed " kit from Sweden,and never had a problem. One other thing, the Bently manual says to use ONLY Castrol/Girling hydraulic fluid. Using anything else speeds up the deterioration of internal rubberized components.


[ 04-13-2004: Message edited by: Steven ]</p>
 
Back
Top