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TR6 TR6 clutch issue, Possible bleeding problem ?????

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bluemiata90

bluemiata90

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I bought a TR6 last fall, the previous owner said the clutch slave cylinder had a leak, drove it home with shifting issues. Up on jack stands and removed and rebuilt slave cylinder. Installed it today, bleed it and the slave rod moves the clutch bar back about 3/4 of an inch <span style="text-decoration: underline">only.</span> The clutch feels like there is no pressure and the trans will not shift into gear. Is there a trick to bleeding the TR6 slave cylinder, should the clutch rod move the trans clutch bar <span style="text-decoration: underline">only</span> 3/4 of an inch. or should I be considering internal issues with the trans. I don't see any leaks and the master cylinder is holding fluid. I'm a little confused on this one. Did the TR6 have any regular issues with the throw-0ut bearing or locking pins. I'm truly hoping it's not an internal trans issue. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 
Update: I went back under the car and discounted the rod and moved the trans. lever back and forth. The lever will move about 1 inch. without any pressure and then it hits something metallic and stops. I went to my TR3 and tried the some thing and the lever had pressure and didn't really move at all. I'm starting to believe it's internal and possible the clevis pin is broken. Do you think I'm in the right direction or is it still possibly the master or slave cylinder. Is there any other way to check to see if it's internal in the trans. HELP
 
The clutch lever on the outside of the transmission should be near vertical when engaged with the clutch plate. If not, more likely then not, that nasty little pin broke.
 
The TR6 setup worked a bit differently than the TR3. Some amount of freeplay is normal, once you push the slave piston into the slave cylinder. There should be a spring in there that slowly pushes it back out though. 3/4" of travel is plenty, but it should start with the piston already out where it holds the pushrod tight against the resistance you felt.

As Ray says, the lever should be nearly vertical when moved as far to the rear as it will go by hand. If it's noticeably farther back than that, then I agree that most likely the taper pin is broken.

This has unfortunately become a somewhat common problem, the design just did not last 30+ years. But it's easy to fix once it's apart : assemble the fork, rod & new taper pin in the correct orientation outside the box; then drill 1/4" through the fork & rod (away from the taper pin). Then reassemble into the box, and put a 1/4" bolt & nut through the hole. Double check that the end of the bolt cannot foul on anything (I like to cut it off flush with the nut) and reassemble everything else as before.
 
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