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TR6 TR6 brake calipers

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TR6oldtimer

TR6oldtimer

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Some say not to split them, TRF did not include the o-ring for the inside passage. Do these people know more then I do? Other then having to source the o-rings, I see no reason not to do it.

Thoughts?
 
Done it many times. I think Moss carries the "O" ring. Nothing special to it. Never could get a good reason not to split them. Some are worried about re-torqueing the halves again........
 
It was one of the first things I did when starting to restore my '73. Easy job. Just be careful getting the pistons out if you use compressed air. A good rag over the piston and keep you face clear.
 
Girling said specifically not to split them. Lots of theories as to why, but no one seems to know for certain.

The theory I like is that the installed clamping force was critical for the bolts to remain in the region where they would not fatigue and break under repeated braking cycles. If you read through the ARP web site, they explain why bolt torque is a very inaccurate method of setting clamping force and why bolt stretch should be measured instead for rhythmically stressed joints (like con rods & perhaps brake calipers). Girling _might_ have felt the same way, and installed their bolts by stretch rather than by torque.
 
OK, I got the puppies apart. I see now what may cause some consternation to split the halves. The bolts were set using a form of LocTite that covered most of the threads. If one were to torque those bolts to the dry lbs/in. they would be over torqued.

So any recommendations on a Loctite product before I go and ask the parts guy with the manicured hands?
 
Gah! Hundreds of kinds of Loctite, all slightly different. Probably need a high temperature version as calipers can get very hot.

And you could even be looking at old Vibratite or similar, not necessarily even a methacrylate thread locking compound.
 
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