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Tips
Tips

TR6 TR6 Bellhousing assembly

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JoeC

JoeC

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Anyone have any tips or suggestions on bolting the bellhousing back to the engine? I've replaced a broken tapered pin and clutch fork. That was the easy part! I worked about an hour yesterday to put things back together, and became very frustrated! My trouble is getting the bolt holes to line up. I'm sure it would be beneficial if I had a helper!?!
Joe
 
Joe:
Make sure you use an aligment tool to center the clutch disk in the pressure plate. You may not have changed the clutch position, but I would still check the alignment. Is there an alignment pin or guide pin on the plate or block that the bell housing bolts up on? Been too long since I was changing the clutch to remember the details. Are you north, central, or south in GA. I am working in LA but my main residence is in Lilburn.
 
Joe,
If you did not support the rear of the engine it has now dropped a bit with out the trany bolted to it. Get a jack under the oil pan (use a block of wood under it ) & raise it about an inch or two. Use the 3/8 dowels, these aid in alignment & support. The first time I did this I fought with it for an hour before I put 2+2 together & realized the the engine droped, jacked it up and was putting bolts in 5 minutes later.
 
Hello Joe,
another hint is to put the gearbox in top gear so you can rotate the input shaft slightly (using the output flange) to help line up the splines as they engage into the clutch centre plate.

Alec
 
Joe, the key is the alignment tool and having the motor at the right height. It should not be very difficult to get them to come back together. One other thing to check is the brass input bushing in the flywheel. If that is damaged, you won't be able to put the input shaft from the transmission all the way in to line it up properly. Good luck,

Mark
 
Hi Joe,

All the other suggestions are good ones....

Also does your car have a single stud in the top/center hole in the engine? That really helps support the weight of the gearbox and roughly align it, while getting everything else lined up.

Incidentally, most TR manuals warn against letting the gearbox hang supported only by the input shaft, while partly installed. Keep supporting the gearbox until it slides all the way home and someone slips a couple bolts into the flange.

Finally, I've heard the dowels that were already mentioned are really critical to properly align the TR6's clutch mechanism. Sometimes they are missing. The shank of a drill bit the right size makes a good substitute.

Alan
 
I just went through this same excercise myself, trying to install the tranny without a helper. First of all, as other have said, you MUST use the clutch alignment tool when you install the clutch.

I got three long bolts, the same thread size as the three studs on the top of the engine/bellhousing, but about two inches longer. I cut the heads off and rounded the ends before I put them in the place of the studs. Using these, it was easy to get the tranny lined up properly before pushing it home. By sliding the tranny over these long headless bolts, I could easily align the tranny while the bolts took the load off me. Without them, it seemed an impossible one-man task, as I couldn't hold the tranny and align it at the same time (I'm still recovering from a fall out of a tree, and my arm strength isn't what it should be).

Once the tranny was in place and the other bolts were installed, I just replaced the long bolts with the proper studs and all was well.
 
I'm in Gainesville, Ga. vettedog...not too far from Lilburn. I took trboost's advice and raised the engine slightly and was able to alingn the bolts. I used some longer carriage bolts instead of dowels, and they worked fine. Tomorrow I hope to get the seats back in, bleed the slave cylinder and drive that bad boy! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif Thanks to all who posted helpful hints! Joe
 
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