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Stag TR4A Paint BRG #25 Single Stage or Base Coat Clear
- Thread starter Stinger
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TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
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The single stage paints of today are a lot more glossy, reflective as you will, then the enamels of the era. If you shoot a single stage urethane it will look like the clear, but not as deep. The last time I shot acrylic enamel, it was much less reflective. A base/clear or a single stage then clear give you bit more UV protection for the underlaying color. Not that it matters as much, because most of these cars spend most of their time in the garage.
I went the clear coat route as I remember when I first had the car, trying without success to get the mirror look in the original paint that it could not give.
Like Art said, it all depends on the finish you want.
I went the clear coat route as I remember when I first had the car, trying without success to get the mirror look in the original paint that it could not give.
Like Art said, it all depends on the finish you want.
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
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Stinger, it's getting near car show time in a lot areas, so if it's not a pressing issue, go look at some of the cars in shows and you will get a better idea what looks good.
On the BRG, go watch it being mixed, when you think is dark enough add a quart of black, now that's BRG.
Wayne
On the BRG, go watch it being mixed, when you think is dark enough add a quart of black, now that's BRG.
Wayne
D
DougF
Guest
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I painted my TR6 in single stage urethane with no clear coat and often regret it. The Mallard Blue paint holds a very good shine, but oxidizes quickly to the point of having to buff it at least once a summer. The car is garage kept.
The Black base/clear I used on my TR3 held up very well for 14 years without needing touched.
The Black base/clear I used on my TR3 held up very well for 14 years without needing touched.
Britishautobody
Jedi Hopeful
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I have a finished dark green Healey on my web site video ,a 67 it is clear coated I think you will find it very nice! Clear coat is less maintainence,easier to repair,less brittle,more UV protection, very flexible a all around better product.
I have seen a few enamel jobs that looked so good I couldn't tell they weren't clear coated,but I know they are more brittle of a finish and more work to maintain.
I have seen a few enamel jobs that looked so good I couldn't tell they weren't clear coated,but I know they are more brittle of a finish and more work to maintain.
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On the personal taste issue I agree that basecoat clearcoat does not look like the cars did when new, but neither does a single stage catalysed enamel.
If you want the high gloss show car look go with base/clear
If you want a more original look go with single stage.
I know a number of auto body guys, they are all sold on basecoat clearcoat, supposedely easier to apply easier to repair.
May be true for the body shops, but don't know so much for the home painter.
Less material cost,less steps to screw something up (if you are a pessimist).
Modern catalyzed enamels blend pretty well even if single stage.
The GN25 paint code is a very dark green, would not mix it then add more black, it looks close to black in some light already.
There are numerous "BRG" codes, MG has a fairly light color, too light in my book, Triumph Racing Green is lighter than GN25 but still pretty dark, a very nice looking color on most any British car in my opinion.
If you want the high gloss show car look go with base/clear
If you want a more original look go with single stage.
I know a number of auto body guys, they are all sold on basecoat clearcoat, supposedely easier to apply easier to repair.
May be true for the body shops, but don't know so much for the home painter.
Less material cost,less steps to screw something up (if you are a pessimist).
Modern catalyzed enamels blend pretty well even if single stage.
The GN25 paint code is a very dark green, would not mix it then add more black, it looks close to black in some light already.
There are numerous "BRG" codes, MG has a fairly light color, too light in my book, Triumph Racing Green is lighter than GN25 but still pretty dark, a very nice looking color on most any British car in my opinion.
Britishautobody
Jedi Hopeful
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Looks great!
Britishautobody
Jedi Hopeful
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You know it is funny how people keep bringing up wanting a finish close to factory non super gloss etc . I never hear mention of wanting factory runs that almost all of the cars had in the engine bays ,door jambs,under the trunk areas, why is that?
Or wanting the terrible " factory fit and gaps" these cars are notorious for straight out of England. I can see being anal to a certain degree.
Where does one draw the line?
In a day of new cars with perfect gaps, all the options,glossy finishes,why not preserve these cars in a higher standard?
Or wanting the terrible " factory fit and gaps" these cars are notorious for straight out of England. I can see being anal to a certain degree.
Where does one draw the line?
In a day of new cars with perfect gaps, all the options,glossy finishes,why not preserve these cars in a higher standard?
dklawson
Yoda
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Britishautobody said:
Very true. When I finished my last paint job a friend of mine pointed out that the finish was MUCH better than it would have been when new.
On the topic of base/clear vs. single stage, there is a compromise - both.
As an example, the last full car I painted was the Mini. My PPG paint supplier suggested a modification to the "normal" painting method as recommended on the data sheets. Their advice was to put down two coats of single stage as normal. For the third and final top coat he suggested mixing the paint 50% with PPG's clear (DUU?) that was compatible with my single stage (DCC?). The result is a bit more gloss and the paint can be wet sanded and buffed to achieve whatever result you are after. I liked the results.
TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
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Doug, I too used a single stage urethane, color sanded, then a clear over it, color sanded, then buffed(if I were a better painter, this would not have been necessary). The main reason for my choice of the clear over the single stage was to get additional UV protection for the Mallard Blue. It also helps if when doing the final sanding an buff, you go through the clear, you still have shine underneath.
A lot of people are put off on the idea of a base/clear cause they see how badly the Detroit boys mess it up(peelers).High quality paints will not give this problem unless parked in the sun for many years with no care. I have to side britishautobody here,the original paint was low tech and generally not too pretty or even durable so why get nostalgic over it?? I say invest in a HIGH quality base clear and get the advantage of better shine and durability over single stage paints.The added UV protection is the big difference.The chemistry of paint pigments is now all petro based,they need to be shielded from harsh UV or they fade like crazy.Gone are the days of lead based pigments or any of the metals that were used "back in the day"to make colors bright.
MD(*mad dog)
MD(*mad dog)