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TR4/4A TR4 Engine ready to start!

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SCguy

SCguy

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Well sort of...

I've done a lot of research and I'm ready to do it myself tomorrow except...
1. I've never adjusted the valves and need some help to make sure I do it right.
2. I'm unclear as to which spark plug wires goes to which plugs. Remember I've switched to a Mallory distributor.

I think that's it! I've already gone way beyond what I thought my ablities were. Does anyone want to hold my hand (its an expression) though the home leg?
 
Valve setting is easy. Mentally number the valves 1-8 starting from the front of the engine (car). Use the "rule of 9" and adjust 1 when 8 is open, 2 when 7 is open, etc., until you've got all valves adjusted. Takes a bit of practice to loosen, adjust and retighten without changing the adjustment you made, but you'll get the hang of it quickly. Oh, and use the no-go / go /go too easily method. Have feeler gauges for .009, .010 and .011 available. When set right, the .011 shouldn't go without significant force, the .010 should just slide in with a bit of resistance, and the .009 will slide in. (And, frankly, .001 or so off isn't going to hurt anything, but erring on the side of loose is better.)

Firing order is 1-3-4-2, with the distributor rotating counterclockwise as you look at it standing over the left front fender and peering in towards the distributor. You can check the "relative" position of the distributor while you have the valve cover off setting valve clearances. When both valves for the front (#1) cylinder are closed and those for #4 are "rocking", you're roughly at top dead center at the end of the compression stroke for #1. That's roughly when you want the #1 plug to fire, so check the rotor position and see which plug wire it's closest to. Then work your way around counter-clockwise from there for wires 3, 4 and 2.

Simple, ain't it?
 
Hi Larry,

That's great news!

Andy has given you some good pointers.

Is the engine all freshly rebuilt?

If so, make sure there is plenty of lube on the camshaft and cam followers, in particular.

Is the camshaft a high performance grind?

If so, it might need more valve lash than Andy's response indicates. Check with who ever supplied the camshaft.

If starting the engine for the first time, you'll probably want to run it at 1500 to 2000 rpm for 15 or 20 minutes. Nice and steady and no blipping of the throttle. This is an important time, as the rings are initially bedding in and the camshaft and followers are getting acquianted with each other.

Somewhere I saw a good detailed checklist for starting up a rebuilt engine, covering all the things I'm sure I've forgotten. You might do some Googling to see if you can find it.

Enjoy your success and let us know how it goes!
 
Break in that cam correctly like Alan said and make sure you have an oil in the crankcase that has plenty of zinc and phosphorus like a 20-50 diesel oil (Delvac, Rotella, Pennzoil Long-Life, Chevron Delo, Havoline URSA or equivilant)...or put some GM EOS in it before you start it!
 
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