Hi,
I have the exact same issue with a pretty good passenger side door I bought and hope to use. (The orignal door is actually rust free and clean, but was shortened at there rear edge a little to "adjust" the gap, after a traffic accident many, many years ago.)
I will probably just weld a different set of brackets onto the door to mount the early style of check straps, since I have two complete, new sets of strap mechanisms on hand. Welding is the only solution I can see.
While I'll be making the door the same as was original on my car - i.e. compatible with the earlier style strap - I'm sure you could go the other way with it just as easily if you wished or that were more convenient. Originality concerns aside, I don't see much difference or advantage of one style stop strap over the other.
Perhaps one way to decide would be based on what parts you have on hand and would allow you to set it up with the minimum amount of additional parts to purchase. Or even let the prices of any parts you need to buy help you decide, if all other things are equal.
Even in terms of "originality', done reasonably well I wonder how many councours judges or other TR4 owners would ever spot the change? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I've got to make a related repair on the driver's door, too, which "lost" one of it's check strap mounting bracket tabs sometime before I bought the car in the 1970s. After I had to repair a crease in the door caused by opening it too wide, I learned yo live with a pair of homemade check straps - simply a couple pieces cut off an old, black seat belt and attached under the trim panels with a few sheet metal screws. It weren't all that pretty, but it worked.
I don't know of any other interchange issues. Heck, aside from trim, the door assembly remained pretty much the same all the way through TR6 production, except for some minor differences around the handle and the separate door lock, of course.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif